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Retro times in Colonia, Uruguay: a perfect day trip from Buenos Aires

8 Apr
2011

I like Buenos Aires, but I did not remember how busy, dusty and noisy it is. It must be that 10 years ago when I first visited, I did not have children. I liked going out til late in the night, and you don’t see things the same way at 20 than at 30 (ok, 28 and 38). People go out for diner at 10pm here, not so feasible with little ones! Or maybe it’s just an urban allergy that I have developed after all those empty lands that we have been through in Patagonia.

So it was a pleasant breath of fresh air to cross the Rio de la Plata and go visit the colonial town of Colonia del Sacramento in Uruguay. Its historic part (dates back to 1680) is a Unesco World Heritage site.

I think this photo epitomizes Colonia: retro, colourful houses, bougainvilleas everywhere, paved roads, relaxed cafes. Only the view on Rio de la Plata is missing from the photo. And my Marcelito is not normally part of the decor.

How to get there / Where to stay:

Colonia del Sacramento is a smooth boat trip from downtown Buenos Aires, making for an easy day trip. Prefer the express buquebus 1h ride, and know that it’s best to book the tickets a few days in advance for a good fare. I think it’d be sweet to spend the night there in one of the many posadas as many places open only at night. El Capullo seemed particularly inviting. Posada del Angel is another recommended address.

Things to do with the chicos in Colonia:

Walk around and get lost (not for long as it’s tiny!) in the cobbled stone streets. Go up the faro aka lighthouse (children under 12 can’t). Rent a buggy (pricey! but it’s like everything else in Colonia, beware) and drive around to the beach. Eat ice cream al dulce de leche. Enjoy tea time with cake al dulce de leche. Eat pure dulce de leche and watch the children go crazy from the sugar overload!!

Have a long lunch in the courtyard of La Florida, the chef Carlos Bidanchon is a slow-food adherent and a great character himself. Or El Rincon for a simple parilla in a beautiful location right on the river. And for tea-time, the best-kept secret of Colonia is Lentas Maravillas on Santa Rita, 61. Loved it.

So we’ve crossed the Rio de la Plata from Buenos Aires to Colonia, and have therefore crossed a border this time by boat. Something that Marcelo found particularly fun…

We marveled at the architecture in Colonia, a mix of colonial colourful houses, and here and there some modernist constructions, such as this cafe (above, right) with a cactus garden overlooking the river…

More on Uruguay soon as we’re discovering this rather unvisited tiny little country in South America, squeezed between Argentina and Brazil…



Category: BozAroundTheWorld, City & Culture, Family reunion, My guides, South America
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April 8th, 2011 | 12:32pm by BozAround
 
 

Arriving in Jorge Luis Borges’ Buenos Aires

5 Apr
2011

We’ve been in Buenos Aires for a few days now, living like porteños. Everywhere, I am reminded of this poem Las Calles / The Streets from one of Argentina’s most famous poet, Jorge Luis Borges. He used to live around the corner from where we are renting an apartment, in the neighborhood of Palermo Viejo. This is a little extract:

My soul is in the streets

of Buenos Aires.

Not the greedy streets

jostling with crowds and traffic,

but the neighborhood streets where nothing is happening,

almost invisible by force of habit,

rendered eternal in the dim light of sunset.

Photo above courtesy of this blog

Buenos Aires is a big and busy city. Located towards the north, Palermo Viejo and Palermo Hollywood are the most pleasant parts of town with the children, because they are calmer, with less traffic yet they’re quite hip and happening. For family-friendly accommodations, I think it makes sense to rent a place (try this link, or that one too), although Home Hotel seems like an excellent blend between hotel & apartment with their family lofts. To be continued…



Category: BozAroundTheWorld, City & Culture, Rhyme Time, South America
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April 5th, 2011 | 12:41pm by BozAround
 
 

From Chilean Patagonia to Argentine Patagonia

3 Apr
2011

It was fun for the children, the idea of crossing a border by road after so many airport immigration points during our round the world. However, it was a bit abstract for all us to understand where Chile ends and where Argentina starts!

This is what the Argentine border looks like 3,000km south of Buenos Aires

From Torres del Paine in Chile to El Calafate in Argentina, it’s an easy road of about 4hours. However, a  good 45 minutes is waisted at both immigration checkpoints. Bureaucracy looks so out of place in this immense Patagonian land.

You might have heard of the long rivalry between Chile and Argentina. Well, El Calafate is a bit the equivalent of Puerto Natales in Chile ie. the start point for many outdoor expeditions to the natural park of El Chalten, and also the world-famous glacier of Perito Moreno (1h30 away). I can’t really compare Patagonia on each side of the border because we stayed in the wilderness in Chile, while we stayed in the city of El Calafate in Argentina (the place went from 2,000 to 15,000 inhabitants in 7 years!), two different experiences. And we did not go trekking in Argentina, we only took a day trip to see the Perito Moreno glacier: it was freezing cold, and I did not enjoy the very touristy experience, by bus, with tons of other people squeezed in this immense land on the paths, in the cafeteria or in the bus. Oh well…s happens!

Ok, I am cheating a bit. These photos are from the Grey Glacier in Chile..I was too cold to take out my camera in Perito Moreno. same, same…

At least, it was wonderfully warm and cozy to retreat to our little family apartment in town, at Los Ponchos, owned by an antique lover and filled with beautiful wooden pieces from Patagonia and elsewhere.

The view from our apartment on Lago Argentino, El Calafate

And we shared a parilla at Don Pichon with our new friends the Bideau family. With their 2 lovely girls Lea and Alice, they are going around the world for 12 months. Now, I am jealous!



Category: Away from it all, BozAroundTheWorld, South America
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April 3rd, 2011 | 4:05pm by BozAround
 
 

El condor pasa

3 Apr
2011

Remember this song..? My parents used to be big fans of Simon&Garfunkel!

Well, I started singing it in my head when I saw this, on top of my head

I’d rather be a sparrow than a snail

yes I would

if I could

I surely would



Category: Away from it all, BozAroundTheWorld, Fresh air, Rhyme Time, South America
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April 3rd, 2011 | 4:01pm by BozAround
 
 

The great outdoors of Patagonia

29 Mar
2011

We’ve just spent 5 days in the national park of Torres del Paine, in the Chilean side of Patagonia. Waterfalls, snowy mountain peaks, lakes of all colours, glaciers, icebergs, never ending lands, condors, huanacos, rain, sun, wind. And rainbows to top it all. It’s a nature lover paradise.

We’ve trekked 4 days in a row, total 26km plus long horseback riding trips. Sometimes with Amalya (in the backpack) and Marcelo (leading the way), sometimes without. I know it does not sound that much but believe me, for people like us who NEVER EVER trek, it’s an achievement! And a newly discovered joy. We can’t wait to be back on the trail.

How to get there / Where to stay:

Depending on the time of the year, low cost Sky Airline flies from Santiago all the way to Puerto Natales (5 hours flight with stopover in P. Montt and then Punta Arenas) which is the gateway to Torres del Paine. However, if that’s not the case, the best is to sleep in Punta Arenas, and then embark on the four-hour scenic drive to Puerto Natales or all the way to the park (another 1h30 drive). It’s best to do all of this with one of the many travel agent, or ask the hotel to arrange it.

Many people also arrive from Buenos Aires, then take a connecting flight to El Calafate (4 hours) for a sleepover of a day or more. El Calafate is in Argentina, 1h30 from the  Chilean border by bus or private transfer, and after crossing the check point, it’s another 1h30 to Puerto Natales. It’s also a fun way to make the journey, we did it on the way back today. The roads are very good and the views beautiful. The children enjoyed it as much as we did.

In high season (Dec. til March), if you want to sleep in shelters (refugios) on the trails inside the Torres del Paine park, you will need to reserve your beds many weeks in advance. Also, it’s probably best with children to trek with an experienced guide, as some trails can be very tough with the strong winds (there’s the famous Big W, did not do it but this is an example. We will come back when Marcelo and Amalya are older!.

Otherwise, there are many lodging options, from the b&b’s of Puerto Natales (and from there, day trips to the park), to the architect-designed hotels Remota or Indigo Patagonia outside of town, or the Explora Hotel Salto Chico whose location is stunning, right inside the park. Explora was our base, something we had booked and saved for a long time in advance. None of the hotels are particularly geared to traveling with the family though.

El Gaucho Marcelo:

We crossed the border by road to Argentina today, all the way to El Calafate, and are now exhausted, in a healthy way. Ready to hit the Perito Moreno glacier manana…to be continued.



Category: Away from it all, BozAroundTheWorld, Fresh air, My guides, South America
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March 29th, 2011 | 2:47am by BozAround
 
 

Waiting for you with open hearts, in Chilean Patagonia

28 Mar
2011

We found a gem of a little family hotel in Punta Arenas, the main city of Chilean Patagonia. Unfortunately, we only spent one night there, but it was a true home away from home.

this is the Chilean flag & the Patagonian flag

Ilaia means “further south” in the language of the Yagán people, the most austral population on the planet, now almost entirely disappeared.

Ilaia Hotel is run from the heart. You feel it from the moment you make a reservation by email, and they answer you in signature waiting for you with a smile. Loved it! If you ever need a place to stay in Punta Arenas, on your way to the great outdoors of Chilean Patagonia (writing from the natural park of Torres del Paine right now), book one of the family rooms in Hotel Ilaia.

There are several things to do with Punta Arenas as a base, including paying a visit to the penguin colony of Isla Magdalena (requires at least 5 hours), or closer, to Sono Otway. Taking a a day trip to see whales. The hotel can help you arrange everything.

the penguins did not mind the incredible wind

And from Punta Arenas (the biggest airport in the region), you can drive 4 hours to Puerto Natales which is then the gateway to the natural park of Torres del Paine. My feet, my arms, my hands hurt so much from all the trekking we did these past 4 days, sorry i can’t write more right now!

a hug into the light… (that was another of Ilaia’s email signature. Felt good too)



Category: Away from it all, BozAroundTheWorld, Family reunion, Fresh air, My guides
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March 28th, 2011 | 2:56am by BozAround
 
 

In-flight origami workshop, from Santiago to Patagonia

25 Mar
2011

I have an idea…how great it would be if airlines could offer origami workshops to children during long flights. Well, at least that was sort of our luck on the 4hours trip between Santiago and Punta Arenas in the far south of Chile (real far! the southernmost city on earth!).  Not a flight attendant, but Marcelo’s very sweet and origami-talented seat-neighbour: Marcela (obviously, I loved her name to start with).

Marcelo and Marcela making origamis in the plane:


They used the food tray paper mats to make the origamis


Really, sometimes you go to places and you see wonders. And ultimately, you meet people and they touch your heart more than all the beauties around. Marcela is a school teacher for under-privileged children in a small town near Chiloe, an island off the Pacific coast in South Chile. The children in her class are all very poor, she was telling me. Not poor as we commonly think of it as they all have enough to eat. They are terribly poor because they desperately lack material to learn, to be stimulated, to broaden their horizons. Marcela learnt from a young age how to make origami, from a little Taiwanese girl who was in her class in Santiago. Since then, she has been improving her skills and passing on her knowledge to the children that she teaches to at school.

She was so kind and patient with Marcelo. I could only imagine her at school with her 30 pupils (a class from 5 until 14 all together) making red and green origami stars for the Christmas tree. Then Marcela told me her personal story, that 2 years ago she was hit by a car as she was leaving for Spain for a post-graduate degree in education. The accident was so bad that she’s had 10 operations since then, including one this week. Hence her flying with us today. Luckily she has recovered all of her very kind smile, and more. A strong woman indeed. I am sure that Marcelo will remember Marcela more than all the penguins we have seen this afternoon in Sono Otway.

Marcela, esa flor es para usted de parte de Marcelo. Gracias!

 



Category: BozAroundTheWorld, Education, Inspiration, Play Time, South America
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March 25th, 2011 | 9:31pm by BozAround
 
 

Suitcase installation at the airport. DIY Inspiration.

24 Mar
2011

We all liked this suitcase installation at the airport of Santiago de Chile:

Talking about suitcases…I calculated our total weight when we checked in, and realized we have 10 more kilos than when we left London 4 months ago. I am not proud of that because travelling heavy really defeats the purpose of travelling around the world. But what can I do? It’s hard to resist buying anything when you travel so far away. One more month to go. Suddenly I envy the backpackers that we meet and their minimalist packing.

 



Category: BozAroundTheWorld, Inspiration, South America
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March 24th, 2011 | 2:19pm by BozAround
 
 

Overwhelming beauty of the Atacama desert

24 Mar
2011

Chile is really a striking country, and we have only seen a tiny bit so far. With only 14million people living here, and half of them in the capital, it’s endless empty lands. The feeling of infinity is something that particularly moved me in the Atacama desert, and I still can’t get over it. The beauty of the landscapes is overwhelming. The immensity of the sky, the clean blues in sharp contrast with the earthy tones of the soil. The many shades of dry greens. The extreme of the weather. Our skin turned into lizard’s just after a few days.

Marcelo saw Saturn and its ring in the telescope of our guide, the day after the full moon, and I think he will never forget it. Just as I will never forget the incredible beauty of this place on earth.

 



Category: Away from it all, BozAroundTheWorld, Fresh air, South America
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March 24th, 2011 | 4:19am by BozAround
 
 

Full moon party (with 2 kids) in the Atacama desert

21 Mar
2011

The Moon Valley, the Death Valley, the Salt Desert, the Oasis of San Pedro de Atacama. We’re in North Chile right now, 2 hours by plane from Santiago. We feel like we’re at the edge of the earth. Lunar landscapes, active volcanoes still covered with snow, the Andes Mountain rising to above 4,500m in front of us. It’s out of this world. Just sharing some photos as it leaves us quite speechless (except our little chatterbox Marcelo and little miss bossy Amalya).

Sunset in the Valle de la Luna

On the road to the full moon party (a mid-30′s version, that is)…

A family full moon party means Building Apachetas (small piles of rocks, literally meaning “the source where the flow begins”)…

And the day after, we went hiking in the canyons of Carape. Loved the trekking style of our guide Mavel. She simply unzipped her trekking short/pants and let the bottom part hang loose on top of her shoes. Suddenly, trekking took on a whole new meaning.

OK, it’s not necessarily easy to be in the Atacama desert with 2 young children because it’s a lot of outdoor activities in one of the driest desert on earth (10% humidity!). Horse back riding, Hiking to high altitude, Sandboarding (did not try it), Mountain Biking. There are tons of excursions to take. Also, it’s quite hot in the day, and chilly at night (best time to visit: May-June and October but really, the whole year is good). But I think it’d be an amazing experience for a family with teenagers.

With the help of our wonderful lodge Awasi, we found a very sweet babysitter, Carola, with whom Marcelo and Amalya play with for half days at a time. It all works perfect. There’s another family with 3 teenagers in the hotel, and from what I saw around the bonfire tonight, they seem to be having a real bonding experience.


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Category: Away from it all, BozAroundTheWorld, Fresh air, South America
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March 21st, 2011 | 3:03am by BozAround
 
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