BozAround


My guides

 

In and around Muscat, Oman

16 Jan
2012

Muscat is a laid-back city on the coast, divided between Old Muscat where the Muttrah souk and the Sultan palace are (we got to see his maaassive yacht in the harbor.. the biggest private yacht in the world…there’s a lot of biggest, tallest, richest in the Arabian Peninsula…) and New Muscat, where most hotels are located. The Chedi hotel is the talk of town in Muscat. It’s not particularly geared to families but the staff is very accomodating, the food is delicious, and with 3 incredible swimming pools, there’s something for everyone. There are a few other big-chain charmless hotels, and no welcoming independent little ones as far as my research took me.

   

Muscat is a good base point for day time activities. About 2 hours drive inland, there is a great wadi (aka canyon) called Nirzwa, which start with a typical oasis. We did not walk up the canyon as it’s not advised with young children (Amalya, 2, was too young but Marcelo, 6 would have been ok) and of course, that day, we had forgotten our backpack..but still, the oasis is worth the visit and the landscape is dramatic.

Another popular attraction outside Muscat is to pay a visit to the many turtle-nesting sites at night. Inside the city, the fish market is on everybody’s list. It’s small, but still atmospheric, especially for the children.

And it takes a good hour to visit Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, inaugurated in 2001. It’s very grand as you would expect, at times peaceful and beautiful with clean lines, high ceilings and white marble everywhere so white that it make you blind with the light of the Arabian sun…

…and at times way over the top, opulent with enormous chandeliers hanging everywhere. Pay attention to the times of the visits, and don’t forget to bring a shawl to cover your arms, legs and head if you’re from le deuxieme sexe. It’s worth the visit.

Another visit on everybody’s list is the Muttrah souk in the old town, although I must confess I was not terribly impressed by the quality of the handcrafts. I guess it’s hard to live up to the beautiful souk in Marrakech, or the big bazaar in Istanbul…

Marcelo and Amalya were definitely happy to visit the souk and we managed to leave with 2 complete outfits…

Meet Princess Amalya and Bedouin Marcelo….

All together, I didn’t feel Muscat should be a destination in itself, but we were pleased to stop there for 2 nights at the end of our Omani vacation, and discover a city in the Arabian peninsula that has retained charm and authenticity while being oil-rich and very modern.



Category: Asia, City & Culture, My guides, Some shopping too, The Middle East
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January 16th, 2012 | 6:42pm by BozAround
 
 

A (family) night in the desert

12 Jan
2012

I’d like to tell you a bit about our recent trip to Oman, officially called the Sultanate of Oman. While we went there primarily to seek some sun and rest in the middle of the long English winter (read: we started with 5 nights in a family-geared sea-side resort called Zighy Bay, stunning location but must improve the family-geared aspect hence I wont speak so much about it here), we managed to have a bit of exciting family adventure in the desert, the highlight of our vacation.

It was the first time I (and we) were visiting the Arabian Peninsula (apart from a business trip to Dubai which had made me ‘allergic’ to those bling bling newly built cities….Btw, Oman/ Muscat is very different, much more authentic). When doing the maths (8hours flight time + flight cost + year end premium + 4hours time difference), Oman came up as a winner vs. all the other sunny destinations we could have gotten to from London at this time of the year. Indeed it was an easy trip, starting with my first flight aboard an A380 (amazing!!! so spacious! so silent!!).

The highlight was our New Year’s eve night in the Wahiba Sands, a part of the desert located 3 hours drive from the capital Muscat. All of us enjoyed it.

   

From the million-stars sky to the bedouin tent and no-electricity camp, to the camel ride on the dunes, and the sand-board ride with the children…

(photo above) This was our camp, Safari Desert Camp, reached after 30min driving off-piste in the desert, 25km from the closest town (some people drive themselves but I strongly recommend hiring a driver if you’re not used to driving on sand dunes!). A true Bedouin-style camp, owned by a Bedouin family. No swimming pool, no electricity. The real deal, but with style and (some) comfort:-)

This (photo above) was our tent, number 1. If you ever stay there, make sure to request a tent and not a hut as it’s infinitely more charming and authentic. they have about 10 tents in the camp, and maybe 5 or 6 huts made of concrete, probably more comfortable but so much less charming.

The tent was perfectly suited to a family of 4, with beautiful real beds, floors covered with colourful carpets, and tiny openings in the tent to see the stars and the moonlight.

   

At night, we were treated to a wonderful evening of traditional music and dance to celebrate the new year. Amalya stood up fearless, dancing under the torchlight with all the bedouin women dressed in their colourful outfits, while Marcelo fell slowly asleep on the pillows, to the beat of the drums.

…And then, we all headed to sleep at 9pm under the stars, wishing this would be the prelude to a beautiful new year.

May all your dreams come true.

Happy New Year x



Category: Asia, Away from it all, Fresh air, My guides, Sea Sand Sun, The Middle East
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January 12th, 2012 | 8:27pm by BozAround
 
 

10 New York Faves with a Family in Five days

2 Nov
2011

Oh New York, New York. I love you New York. I lived there for 10 years and have called it home more than once. As Marcelo is the only true New Yorker in the family, he had a good excuse to tag along my recent trip to the Big Apple.

Following our Mom-and-Son escape to New York City, here’s BozAround 10 New York Faves in Five Days with a Family:

FAVE #1. Climb up (so to say) the Empire State Building. A tourist cliche, yes, but the best way to kickstart any stay in the city.

BozAround tips:

- Choose your day and check that the sky is rather blue before going up the ESB otherwise you’ll end up in the clouds.

- Buy your ticket online here and spend extra for the Express to avoid the (frequent) 1h30 queue. Don’t pay extra for going higher than the 86th floor observatory, it’s not worth it.

- Even if it’s normally a no-no, let the kids chew a gum in the elevator to soothe those little ears and they’ll feel sooo cool about it.

FAVE #2. Devour a cheese burger at J.G. Mellon. All the way Upper East Side but it’s one of the best in town. And the place is very authentic and atmospheric.

   

BozAround tips:

- They’re not particularly child-friendly at J.G. Melon although the restaurant is packed with families at lunch time. If you come in with a stroller, be prepared to fold it, or plan on eating on the terrace (we’re talking New York terrace ie. the sidewalk!)

- And while you’re all the way Uptown Manhattan, visit the stunning Guggenheim Museum (we were too early for the Maurizio Cattelan upcoming exhibition, which is sure to be a hit with children too. Opening Nov 4th), the Metropolitan Museum (no fixed price ticket, recommended donation instead. Good to know when you’ve run low on $$) or the Whitney Museum of American Art. They’re all amaaaazing (with that New York accent on the aaaaazing).

   

hmmm…my New York cheesecake, above, at J.G. Mellon. Lucky me Marcelo was full after his burger.

FAVE #3. Learn about the Big Bang theory at the Rose Center. This addition to the Natural History Museum is one of the most impressive planetarium on earth.

BozAround tip:

- Read this beforehand if you don’t want to sound as clueless as I was.

FAVE #4. Amaze in all the cranes and constructions going around in the Financial District and at Ground Zero

And while you’re there, pay a visit to Occupy Wall Street and tell me how to explain a 5 year-old what Become Your Dream written on a garbage bin really means. You’ll be right by the Memorial to the September 11th victims, which can be visited too.

   

FAVE #5.  Take the Staten Island Ferry back and forth for the best view to the Statue of Liberty (1 hour round trip). For free! Like a Local!

Marcelo hiding behind his very cool new Bat Hat from Oeuf 

BozAround tip:

- Don’t bother buying that New York City Pass. You’ll waist money as you still have to queue for the ESB and for the Statue of Liberty even though you buy the tickets in advance and you’re forced to buy a bunch.

FAVE #6. Let them indulge in a $2 hot dog. Marcelo had one for breakfast as we walked past the Occupy Wall Street site, and another one for lunch at noon at Bubby’s. And I am French and I said Ok. Oh la la…

   

BozAround tip:

- If you can’t bear the thought of having a street hot dog, go for lunch to Bubby’s, a TribeCa (downtown Manhattan) institution for yummy homemade meals 24/7. Hot Dogs and other goodies on the kids menu, and a very good Chicken Caesar salad for the health-conscious in you.

FAVE #7. Play in Central Park, preferably on a sunny w/e if you want to feel like a true New Yorker. There is a big playground just off the 6th Avenue entrance but beware, it’s not securely gated. There’s also the ice skating rink in winter, the zoo…

   

at FAO Schwartz above left, and reuniting with friends in the Park, right.

BozAround tips:

- If you want nice and clean restrooms before heading to Central Park, the Plaza Hotel concierge won’t even notice you taking the 2nd floor elevator! And you can say to your daughter, this is where Eloise at the Plaza took place [instead of indulging in this extravagant (and slightly ridiculous??) experience, designed by Betsey Johnson, for $1,500 a night. This is New York, where anything goes].

- And just across the street from the Plaza, on 5th Avenue, you can pay a visit to F.A.O. Schwartz (no strings attached) and also check your emails with free wifi at the beautiful Apple store (glass cube) underground.

FAVE #8. Turn and turn and turn on Jane’s Carrousel in Dumbo, Brooklyn (Down Under the Manhattan Bridge Overpass). There’s been a lot of additions to the New York landscape since I last visited, but this is my favourite one by far. Jane’s Carrousel is a completely restored old wooden carrousel, donated by a New York lover to the city. It seats right by the water, on the Brooklyn side, with stunning views to Manhattan and it’s enclosed in an incredible glasshouse designed by French architect Jean Nouvel. Amaaaazing. The whole revamp of Brooklyn Bridge Park is worth a visit. Dumbo is a wonderful little neighborhood not so far from Williamsburg and Brooklyn Heights and it’s nice to combine a visit to these 3 areas – they have a lot to offer and the views on Manhattan are stunning. My favorite time of the day is at dawn.

   

BozAround tips:

- Marvel at the art installation currently on display behind the carrousel.

- When you’re cold and tired, head to Jacques Torres right behind on a little street in Dumbo, for a delicious hot chocolate. And to Pomme, a very sweet children’s shop.

   

FAVE #9. Shop til you Drop at any of those places which I visit each time I am in the city (it’s all children’s as you can see…thats what being a mum is about i guess).

- In TriBeCa (which is family-territory): Bu and the Duck (well, don’t actually start there because you’ll drop immediately! but it’s oh so beautiful), Steven Alan across the street (a one stop shop for the family), and the new Crewcuts around the corner.

- In the Village: Bigelow, Yoya.

- In Nolita: the little Sweet William Manhattan outpost. And many more which you will just stumble upon and won’t resist…

FAVE #10. Walk up and down Midtown Manhattan and look up in the Sky Oh So High

   

BozAround tip: if you can still squeeze in one, visit the MOMA, one of my favourite actually (udner 16 don’t pay).

and that’s when I heard:

Maman, these are just scribbles, my feet are hurting. i wanna go home.

And off we went back home. Five days in New York gave Marcelo a great overview and feel for his city.

One last tip…Be prepared with good walking shoes and some $$ in your pocket!!



Category: City & Culture, Just the 2 of us, My guides, North America, Some shopping too
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November 2nd, 2011 | 4:52pm by BozAround
 
 

Cornwall, the perfect family recipe by the UK seaside

29 Sep
2011

For those of you not so familiar with the UK, Cornwall is a rather dramatic and unspoilt region at the tip of the peninsula to the SouthWest of the UK, often considered one of the most beautiful too. And there is a hotel there that is just perfect for a family stay full of oxygen, next to the big waves of the Atlantic: The Hotel & Extreme Academy at Watergate Bay.

Tried and tested by BozAround last year, I never got a chance to actually write a post about it.  It’s one of those places a bit hard to describe because it’s more about the relaxed vibe than the chi chi details, if you see what I mean.

   

The Hotel at Watergate Bay is very kid-centric. They give you baby monitors if you have very little ones, and lots of other small details that make the difference. There is a good kids clubs during the holidays where the ‘nursery-type’ staff entertains the children creatively. At night, there’s always “movie-night” in the mini cinema room and they love it while the parents are having dinner in the Brasserie. The decor is simple but tasteful, and certainly not trying too hard to impress, which is a welcome change from all the so-called boutique hotels.

SLEEP

The rooms are generally spacious, especially if you choose a family suite. With the extra room and bunk beds, it could fit a family up to 6 people. I think it’s one of those places where it’s worth spending the extra pounds to get the ocean view as you are so close to it, and the windows are big. Breathe in. Breathe out.

PLAY

Aside from the kids club with entertainment for 3 to 7 year olds (they even had the little Squashbox theater come and perform one evening when we were there), the Extreme Academy is the excellent Water-Sports school. Surf (must be over 8), Kitesurf, waveski and stand-up paddlesurf (over 18, and over 12 for all over sports)…if it’s adrenalin-filled, chances are they’ll offer it. There are kids sports camp during the school holidays but they fill in quickly. Reserve in advance.

   

The beach itself is deep and long, with typical Atlantic tides and pools everywhere. Don’t come here thinking you will lay down on the beach and do easy sandcastles. No, no. The wind is strong, and the weather is unpredictable. It’s part of the “extreme” package. So in Cornwall, do like the locals. Buy yourself a sort of square tent (without a roof) and hide behind to build your castles and eat your fish & chips.

   

You can also wear some good shoes and go up the trail behind the hotel, along the cliffs. The landscape is dramatic and magnificent, but it’s not for the vertigo-feared parents.

Yes, this turquoise water is England. No photoshop. Believe it or not.

And for a change from the beach, there’s always DairyLand Farmworld in Newquay, a 15min drive from the hotel. It’s well done: watch the milking of the cows, give a bottle to a baby sheep, go pony riding and Pat-a-Pet. Or the Blue Reef Aquarium, in Newquay too.

EAT

Aside from the Brasserie, there’s a good Beach Hut run by the hotel, just on the beach and it works just fine for a burger or a fish&chips. But the cherry on the cake is really  Jamie Oliver‘s Fifteen Cornwall restaurant, which is right on the footstep of The Hotel. Totally Cornish! The menu is delicious, the price reasonable for such good quality of food, and the view is outstanding. You won’t even need a babysitter at night because the monitors (walkie talkie style) provided by the hotel work all the way in Jamie Oliver’s restaurant!

BozAround tips:

- If Watergate Bay The Hotel is full, try one of these family-friendly back-ups.

- It’s easy to fly to Newquay from London City airport. Buy your ticket well in advance with low-cost airline Airsouthwest. The Hotel is less than a 15min drive from the airport (the sound of the wave will cover any airplane noise), and you might not even need a car rental if you’re fanatic about watersports. However, if you do decide to drive from London (about 6 hours with no traffic), it could be nice to stopover in the lovely city of Bath.

      

- For a day trip, try to visit Padstow. It’s lovely. It really is. Take the scenic route from Watergate Bay along the coast, reserve a lunch at one of Rick Stein‘s cafes or restaurant for great seafood (he’s another big Celebrity Brit Chef) and then a long walk on the empty beach, watching the sailing boats go by.

   

And marvel at the weather in between two rain drops, eating a Cornish scone with some clotted cream and jam…



Category: Europe, Fresh air, My guides, Play Time, Sea Sand Sun
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September 29th, 2011 | 10:00am by BozAround
 
 

Under the Mallorcan sun, Spain

22 Aug
2011

There is another Mallorca away from the over-developped coast in the East. It has retained all its charm and dramatic coastline. I am talking about the area around the towns of Soller, Deia and Valdemossa, in the North-West of the island, North of Palma and inland. The landscape is breathtaking, the Sea & Sun is Mediterannee at its best, the food is mouth-watering (think grilled gambas, fish a la plancha and multicolor paellas…) All that’s missing in the happy-kid formula is Sand, but you can easily make up for it with some snorkelling, boat trips, and trekking up and downs the little bays for a swim.

Above, the view from Hotel Esplendido…Below, Cala Deia.

We had the treat of a long week end just the 2 of us. Once in a while, it’s a luxury & a necessity (this is not an oxymoron). That said, I could see how Mallorca would have been equally enchanting with Los Niños. In Southern Europe, kids are always kings.

SLEEP in Mallorca

The Esplendido Hotel in Port de Soller is truly a great address, for families and not. Located 35 min from Palma international airport, it is literally on the water in the tranquil bay of Port de Soller, facing the sailing boats and the light house. Stylishly decorated with a modern-vintage feel and many personal touches from the Scandinavian owners, the rooms are spacious and rather simplistic – read no chichi, which I like when staying in a hotel with children. And for the fun, there are two swimming pools located on the high-up natural terraces facing the sea. One is special for the families so you’re not bothering when splashing and making noise. It’s perfect that way. The owners also have a well reputed property in the city of Palma, The Portixol (stay tuned as they will open The Valluga this December in the famous ski resort of St Anton, Austria.)

      

If you’d prefer staying inland and waking up to the charm of the old town of Soller, three hotels come well recommended: La Vila right on the main square in a former Art Nouveau townhouse, Salvia (beautiful garden and pool) and the new L’Avenida but they will certainly not be as easy on the children as the Esplendido. An old-school tram links Port de Soller to Soller every 30min. It’s a very pleasant and rather short ride (albeit pricey at Eur4 pp, kids pay too). Note that there’s also a frequent and charming turistico train that links Palma to Port de Soller. And in the town of Valdemossa, Es Petit Hotel seemed to have the best location.

   

SHOP in MALLORCA

Soller’s weekly market is held every Saturday morning until 2pm. Then it’s siesta time and everything – literally everything – is closed. At the market, you can get gorgeous fruits and vegetables. A great type of sea salt called Flor de Sal flavored with lemons from Soller, rosemary or several other natural fragrances. I also picked a very long peasant skirt. It’s very old (call it vintage!) and I loved the fabric. On the spot it looked great. Obviously, now that I am back home, I am wondering what sort of curtains I am going to make with it… You’ll see everyone wearing albarques in Mallorca and I was determined to get my own pair too.

   

While these sandals are originally from Menorca (another Balearic island), I got mine (and Ceki’s and Amalya’s in size 24!!) at Ben Calcat in Soller, where they are hand-made right on the spot. They’ll even ship abroad. Shall I dare to say that going to Mallorca was in large part motivated by the fact that I could finally get my own pair of albarques?

   

EAT in MALLORCA

I had not been back to Spain in more than ten years and Oh Señor, nothing tastes better than a good paella eaten right where it’s from.

For the best tapas in an old school bodega, we feasted at La Boveda in the old town of Palma. That was right after landing, and it set the tone for the rest of the week end. Grilled gambas, jamon Serrano, Patatas bravas, Chipirones…. it was a feast.

On a day trip along the dramatic coast, we stopped at Cala Deia, a beautiful little bay where kids play on the pebble beach and jump in the sea from the rocks. Cala Deia has some parking and it’s useful given how steep the path to the beach is. Right there is a fish restaurant called Can March with tables overlooking the bay, barefoot. It’s wonderful and everything is so fresh. There’s also a little shack on the beach for quicker snacks.

And if you hire a boat (sailing or not), please make sure to reserve at Sa Foradada restaurant for a paella, barefoot too. It might be one of the most beautiful cliff restaurant I have ever seen. Perched high above the sea, the family has been running it for 42 years and the owner has had plenty of time to perfect his recipe. The paella is the best I have ever had. Gracias Cesar x

It’s always fun to try the local delicacies when travelling around and Mallorca has quite a few. My favorite was this typical pastry & drink combo from Valdemossa: perfect for afternoon snack time, when the sun starts going down and you come back from the beach, the Horchata de Almendra served with a Coco de Patata aka an almond drink and a cake made with potato, sugar, eggs, lemon and cinnamon. Only good things.

Photo credit above Esther Moline

DO in MALLORCA

You could take a hike early in the day when the sun is not so high. The mountains are great for walking and there are good destinations such as Fornalutx and Biniaraix within a half-day’s walk from Soller. You could also rent a bike from Tramuntana Tours in Soller (+34 971 632 423).

And you could charter a sail boat for the day. There are plenty to get at the harbor in Port de Soller. We had an amazing time on Mezzo Magic  going around with our skipper Mark who showed us some pretty scary but exciting secret underwater caves. I’m sure that grown-up kids would have loved that too.

Culturally, there’s quite a lot to do too. Here are the addresses I picked up in an interview with Miquel Fluxa, the man behind Camper. Did you know that this famous shoe brand is from Mallorca? And that Miro’s mother was also from Mallorca, where he spent all his summer holidays?

Fundacio Pilar i Joan Miro. Saridaki, 29. Palma

Es Baluard museu d’rt modern i contemporani de Palma – Placa Porta Santa Ctalina, 10. Palma

Studio Barbara Weil – Camino San Carlos, 20. Puerto d’Andratx

Catedral de Santa Maria La Seu – Plaza Salmoina, Palma

And in Valdemossa, stop by the house where Chopin and George Sand used to live (they were lovers) and gently caress the nose of Chopin’s statue. A kid ritual.

   

Some old-school charm by the cathedral in Palma…

And for more, check this very complete post on the blog Travel with Jonna, who was in the same region over New Years eve with her children.



Category: City & Culture, Europe, Far away so close, Just the 2 of us, My guides, Sea Sand Sun
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August 22nd, 2011 | 9:28am by BozAround
 
 

Like an habitué in Cap Ferret, France

31 Jul
2011

Cap Ferret is a well known French secret not often shared with foreigners. A summer destination near Bordeaux on the Atlantic coast with incredible charm and bohemian living. Not to be confused with St Jean Cap Ferrat on the Riviera, famously full of glitzy russians and wealthy americans, Cap Ferret is laid back, hidden on a peninsula, yet with its own codes and bourgeois values inherited from the big families of wine merchants around Bordeaux.

Having just spent 2 weeks here with Marcelo (5) and Amalya(2), Cap Ferret lived up to its reputation. A wonderful family destination away from the big crowds, close to nature and with healthy and active living, all of this in a chic yet understated way. Unfortunately my photos are not doing it full justice as the weather was bad and the light not so good.

Cap Ferret sits at the tip of a peninsula and even though the village itself is rather charmless, its location is stunning, with the busy bay of Arcachon on one side, and the very long empty beaches across sand dunes on the Atlantic side.

Life revolves around the oh-so delicious daily food market, the tides schedules, the many sports actvities available and aperitif time made of the world famous oysters from the bay and a glass of crisp white from Bordeaux or fruity rose from Provence. Alternatively, try a glass of Lillet, a very local aperitif.

   

Everyone goes around by bicycle, which is what we loved the most – Amalya in her carriage, Marcelo on his first little bike (bravo!) – and children & adults have many sports available at their fingertips. One can be easy lazy all day long, lounging from the bassin (bay) beaches to the ocean beaches, or a non-stop doer from surfing to sailing to kayaking to kitesurfing to tennis playing to deep sea fishing to…boating.ok, that’s not really a sport. On top of that, there are quite a number of pleasant half day trips for the culturally adventurous.

On the photo below left, Sabot (Clog) , Papillon (butterfly) and Noisette (hazelnut) denote different oyster sizes. 

      

If the weather is crap (it’s the Atlantic coast after all, not as predictable as the Mediterrannee), you can always get the family in the car and drive 1h30 away to several of Bordeaux’ great Medoc – with a designated driver bien sur.

And if the weather is really crap (like it’s been for us most of the vacation, but everyone said it was an exception. Can we believe the locals?), the food will always be amazingly good, whether you cook simple dishes with the local market supplies or try one of the delicious fish restaurants. And with a good supply of paint, crafts and recipe books, vacation is always vacation. Smile.

   

Here’s my Best Of Cap Ferret:

PLAY in Cap Ferret

Take a boat tour with Balade sur Chaland, a small business of fishermans’ boats who will tell you all about the bay. Marcelo loved fishing with our captain Vincent and catching a sole that I then cooked for dinner.

   

You could also just get onboard one of the many general excursions departing the main dock in town. Or you could charter your own speed boat and picnic on the famous Banc d’Arguin National Reserve in the middle of the seas (try the Taxi Boat  06 64 04 04 01 or Danny on 06 12 59 30 75). Organize a picnic beforehand, or have it prepared by La Pinasse Cafe and pick it up at the dock, tres chic. Try also Les Pinasses du Bassin if you want an authentic local pinasse boat.

Ride the Petit Train back and forth to the Ocean beach from the bay dock. It runs every 30minutes (click here for the detailed schedule) and is fun for the young children. That beach is very pleasant and safeguarded. Other beautiful ocean beaches incldue the one of the Sail Fish (more remote), and the Beach de la Pointe (amazing views).

Bike Rental: You’ll find plenty of shops in town for bike rental, but the best is Westside Sports (05 56 03 77 48 info@sportsdetente.com) as they have the stylish and so comfortable Beach Cruiser bikes. The owner is very friendly and has a good deal: for Eur17 for the day, you’ll get a bike, a 6 oysters tasting and a glass of white wine. What else do we need?!

Surf Classes: Cap Ferret is a big surf spot, with many different schools and places to rent equipment. The two most recommended surf schools for children are: Alex Surf Club (06 47 35 34 84) by the Small Train beach, starting 4 years old. And Nomad Surf School ( 06 60 87 62 90) starting 6 years old.

Tennis Club de l’Ocean. They have weekly kids programs starting at 5 years old. (05 56 03 79 61 – right by the “Sail Fish” restaurant)

Sailing Classes at the Club de Voile Cercle Nautique du Cap Ferret (05 56 50 44 06 - cnferret@wanadoo.fr). It’s located on the Plage du Phare ie the lighthouse beach near town, with half day courses morning or afternoon.

And many families enroll their children in kids beach clubs, for half or full days. Often, the staff will not speak French but if you’d like to give it a try, check out the most famous one Le Club du Phare (05 56 60 69 63).

There are many more sports and activities available, check out the Tourism office for full details. There’s an office when you reach the peninsula, and one right in the village of Cap Ferret, or email them on this link.

STAY in Cap Ferret

My favourite area is towards the end of the peninsula ie La Pointe, after the lighthouse (the 44 hectares and around). It’s very quiet, yet still an easy biking distance from the heart of town and very near both sides of the peninsula. The environment is extremely protected and the streets are often made of sand, with little or no signage and no street lights at night. Most houses are hidden behind big pine trees giving a great sense of privacy.

   

Otherwise, staying inside the town of Cap Ferret gives the advantage of being walking distance to the shops and the market yet still very near the beaches. And there are two particularly beautiful little towns facing the bay right before Cap Ferret, technically separate but still forming the same community: L’Herbe and La Vigne. They are originally oyster fisherman villages and have retained the charm of the small wooden house painted in many colours.

   

All around, the way to go with a family is to rent a house. Try these two real estate agents as they have a good quality supply: Agence immobiliere du Cap & Agence de la Presqu’ile . For the summer months, you are advised to book way in advance. We found our very charming rental on Homelidays, a favorite resource that puts you in touch directly with the owners. You could also stay at the lovely guest house Yamina Lodge conveniently located right by one of the prettiest ocean beaches, the Sail Fish beach.

If you’re in for a shorter stay, the 3 best hotel addresses are: La Maison du Bassin, filled with antiques on the bay side, Cote Sable, more design inside town and l’Hotel des Dunes, right near the sand dunes on the ocean side.

EAT in Cap Ferret

Oh..I don’t know where to start!

For the most memorable & delicious meal, you must go (and reserve way in advance for a nice table) Chez Hortense 05 56 60 62 56, lunch or dinner, children most welcome. An institution at la Pointe du Cap (facing the majestic Pyla Dune). It’s a wonderful family bistro. And there, you should not miss Les Moules in the menu, a secret recipe of mussels, tons of garlic (this is France) and ham from the basque country.

For extra thin crusts pizza to stay or take away, Chez Joel inside town (remember that delivery -and great service in general- is not part of the French vocabulary!!). 05 56 03 71 77. 2 Rue des Rossignols

For fresh fish in the fisherman’s village, le Bouchon du Ferret (05 56 60 77 32) is a relaxed and pleasant restaurant, owned by Chez Boulan across the street where you can taste different oysters by the water.

For more fresh fish and a beautiful view of the bay, Le Pinasse Cafe 05 56 03 77 87. The menu is very good and children can play on the sand right in front of you.

For a more elegant, kids-free evening, La Maison du Bassin has a very recommended table. Or just get a drink at the bar next door, Le Tchanque.

For the best oysters to take away, Chez Sebastien Degrave in the oyster village of Cap ferret. They also have a most romantic terace at the back for tasting til 10pm. Make sure also to pay a visit to the authentic and incredibly charming villages of L’Herbe, La Vigne and Le Canon where communities of oystermen and fishermen still live all year long.

For the best canneles (a typical pastry from the Bordeaux region, de-li-cious) or a waffle after the beach, you need to queue like everyone else Chez Fredelian in the heart of town. You cannot leave Cap Ferret without trying one of those.

And do get that very special treat that all the locals queue for at the market, a Dune Blanche from the bakery Chez Pascal. To die for. Can’t tell you more.

Oh..and Last:For the freshest fish to cook at home, buy it chez Poissonerie Lucine (05 56 60 47 07) Ask for advice – I have been experimenting many different fish carpaccio recipes thanks to them.

   

Slightly outside town, for old-school atmosphere and a great terrace, Chez Magne at Hotel de la Plage in the village of L’Herbe (a must-visit little village – see above) is another institution. Or next door, on the beach, for oysters & a glass of white wine while kids play on the beach.

Don’t shy away in asking for children’s menu wherever you go. It’s not always explicit but surely available.

SHOP in Cap Ferret

The daily market (til 1pm) has an ecclectic set of stands so you’ll have to dig in to find good surprises. Try to find the stall of Laingo, a family from Madagascar selling very sweet children pieces made of liberty fabrics that they source in England. In the summer months, the market is everyday. Otherwise it’s on Saturdays & Wednesdays.

Esprit du Cap is a smart antique-filled shop in the fisherman’s village.

TIPS

Arrive into Bordeaux by TGV(high speed train) or by plane (several international airlines including Easy Jet and British Airways). It’s a 45min drive to Cap Ferret, a hefty Eur140 taxi ride, so you are better off reserving a car rental- but you might never use your car once in Cap Ferret…

Ask for a babysitter’s list at the Office du Tourisme. They will email you one in advance

Stop at the Tourism office to pick up many valuable maps and advice

Book restaurants or activities in advance in peak season (which arguably might not be your idea of vacation…but that’s the way not to be disappointed in Cap Ferret)

…And if all of this is not enough info, check this recent article on Travel&Leisure

 

 

Voila.  Now you can claim to be an habitué du Cap Ferret…



Category: Europe, Family reunion, Far away so close, Fresh air, My guides, Sea Sand Sun
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July 31st, 2011 | 9:46am by BozAround
 
 

Patmos, my Greek island

13 Jun
2011

Like Onassis had Skorpios. I would have Patmos. In a dream life… And what a dream island it is. Last summer we got to spend 4 nights there with the children, and we promised to be back every year. In a dream life.

It’s a bit ironic. Just as the crisis gets deeper and the country is about to default, artsy circles call Athens the new Berlin. And French Vogue has an All About Greece issue this month. It was about time I share the wonderful places we discovered en famille last summer.

ARRIVE in PATMOS

Patmos is a small island (36km2), and a rather tricky one to reach so you should plan at least one week there. It’s located in the Western part of the Greek archipel, part of the Dodecanese islands, not so far from the Turkish coast. There is no airport in Patmos, and there will never be one due to the landscape. Which means it’s not for those who like to fly and lie down.

The wonderful Petra Hotel tells you all about how to get there. If you and the children don’t mind the (often bumpy) boat ride (1.5 to 3 hours from the nearby islands with airports, or 7 hours from Athens harbor), then you might even be able to take a nap during the boat ride…

PLAY in PATMOS

The day is lazily and happily spent at one of the many beaches. Kampos and Agriolivado are sandy beaches that also provide sun loungers and umbrellas at a small fee. George’s Place on Kampos has yummy salads, traditional pies and delicious smoothies, so prefer Kampos with the children.

One of the island’s quaintest beach, with thin pebble, is called Vagia, but beware that there is only little shade from trees; you’d have to bring your umbrella or time it early or late in the day. There is also a very small place called Eutuchia with Greek food specialties on top of Vagia beach.

Psili Ammos is the nicest sandy beach of the island, but accessible only by boat, or on foot. With young children, you’ll have to hire a boat at the harbor. They depart daily from Skala at around 10 am, returning around 4-5pm.

You might also want to spend a day hiring a private boat or simply get on one of the chartered boats in the harbor, to visit the neighboring tiny islands.


We did some snorkeling in the pure deep blue waters, and we sighted a family of dolphins as we were cruising around, a magic moment for the children. We loved stopping for a long lunch at Pantelis Marathi, a delicious family-owned restaurant on a very very small island called Marathi.

VISIT in PATMOS

There is a mystical atmosphere on the island when you see the monks and priests passing by in their long black robes and beards in the heat of the summer. It’s because Patmos has one of the most important orthodox monasteries in the world, the Monastery of St John the Divine. It’s stunning, and so peaceful, perched atop the island, in the Chora ie. the old town, a Unesco World Heritage site.

The other cultural / religious highlight is the Cave of Apocalypse where St John wrote his book of  Revelation in the Bible. And the famous three old windmills…

And then, the entire Chora (the old town around the monastery) is stunning. A labyrinth of small cobbled stone streets, with a (very) few tavernas for a cheap and delicious dinner of grilled fish and salads.

SLEEP in PATMOS

Patmos is a discreet island, far from the hype of famous Mykonos. It’s a mix of well-heeled Greeks and international travellers in the know. There are many families too. The French, Italian and Belgium seem to be the majority of the international clientele, but Julia Roberts was rumoured to be scouting for a house in the Chora last summer. All this to say that there are no large scale resorts, only small hotels and apartment or houses to rent.

We loved the Petra Hotel (photos above), located in a quieter bay a short drive from Skala and Chora (the main towns). It’s overlooking the calm sea, and it’s a short walk from a picturesque fisherman’s beach. The hotel is not particularly child-friendly in that there were no child-seats or children menu at the restaurant (a pitty), there are many stairs to go up to the room. But the long-time owners will do everything to put you at ease and accommodate your special family needs. When we were there, there were at least 4 other families and they all seemed regulars.

If I was to rent a house, I would choose to stay in the Chora, high up on the island, for the magnificent views at sunset. It’s no more than a 20minute scenic drive to the beaches. Try the tourism office or this site for ideas.

EAT in PATMOS

There are a few delicious choices, and most people eat outside at night. The restaurants are casual, with that laid back Mediteranean feel, very family-friendly. Our favourite taverna was Leonidas near Lampi Bay in the northern part of Patmos. Reserve a table on the terrace, get there at sunset and enjoy grilled fish and raki while the children play in the garden. It’s magic, and what a summer vacation should be.

Another favourite was the taverna of Vagelis on the main square of the old Chora (better to ask for a table on the square and soak in the atmosphere). their specialties are the local meat dishes. Everyone raves about fancy Benetos and its home-grown fruits and vegetables, but we were more impressed with the meals we had in the old-school tavernas. Here are some friends’ recommendations if you need more choices: Kyma for fish. Hiliomodi (in Skala) for their specialty dessert tomatini. Lambi for fish and the specialty fried cheese. And Vegera if you crave good italian food.

SMART TIPS

You could go around all day long by scooter. But with a family, you’ll definitely need a car and you’re best booking it in advance in the height of the summer. Arrange it with your place of stay. There’s Avis and a bunch of local car rentals. they usually bring you the car wherever you’d like, even at the arrival of the boat. If you need a taxi, keep this number: 22470 31225.

…the music blew and pushed me

pieces of sea here – pieces of sea farther one.

Odysseu Elytis, in the poetry book Maria Nefele, Patmos.

 



Category: Away from it all, Europe, Fresh air, My guides, Sea Sand Sun
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June 13th, 2011 | 11:28pm by BozAround
 
 

Where Nature is stronger than Man

23 Apr
2011

As in Up (a favorite DVD night during our round the world), we followed Mr Fredricksen’s dream of seeing the largest waterfalls in South America and headed to Iguazu falls. Impressive..really. Nature is stronger than Man (i hope)

As the falls lie exactly at the border between Argentina and Brazil, you could choose to be based in either country, I don’t think it would make much of a difference. We chose the Brazilian side. However, for the visits, I do think it’s worth seeing the falls from both sides and spending at least 2 nights, maybe 3 to allow plenty of time.

The Argentine and Brazilian side differ quite a bit. You have a more panoramic view from the Brazilian side, but the trail there is rather short (about 1.5km) and can easily be done in half a day. On the Argentine side, you really need a full day. And then there are plenty of outdoor activities to take with the children if they are old enough for the adrenalin rush (rafting, boat trip to the falls, 4Wd in the jungle..)

Be prepared to be surrounded by tourists as there’s no way to avoid it unfortunately. The Brazilian side felt a bit calmer and the paths were all shaded by the trees.

To plan your stay, here are some BozAround tips…

- In the Argentina side, you travel for a while with a little train (not as fun as it sounds), and you have 3 main trails: the Devil’s throat (must-see), the Upper circuit (for good close ups from above) and the Lower circuit (for close ups from below). In the Inferior trail, you will get wet for sure, and beware that there are lots of stairs, making it rather tricky if you use a stroller. All together, it’s about 6km of trails on the Argentinian side.

- In the Brazilian side, you can take an excursion called Macuco Boat Safari, which I was dying to do, but Marcelo and Amalya would have been too scared (I don’t think I would do it with children less than 10 years old although there is no age limit). You take a boat trip all the way to the falls, super close up, and come back. It last 35min and the boat takes you and brings you back to the shore. Sounds fun.

- You can do a similar high-adrenalin boat trip on the Argentinian side but there, the boat takes you close to the falls and leaves you on a trail where there is then the long walk.

- There are additional ecological trails offered on either side going in the forest, they can be booked the same day. We did not have time to do those and I regretted. The thick jungle is beautiful, and there are tons of birds species.

- The helicopter ride above the falls is pricey, but quite worth it. You can only do it the Brazilian side as Argentina does not do it for ecological reasons (although the verdict is out there on the real impact). It’s US$100 per person, but young children won’t pay (Marcelo,5, and Amalya,2, sat on our laps and it was fine). You can’t book it in advance. Just show up at the helicopter pad before the entrance of the national park, between 9am and 5pm.

- We found a really nice taxi driver at the Argentine airport, and agreed on a deal for the next day to take us back and forth from Argentina and Brazil. Pablo Barreto Tel: 03757-15416047 / Cel: 054-3757-15540089 or pablinbarreto@hotmail.com.

Feeling like Mr Fredricksen from the helicopter ride…Up, Up, Up

Ps: Do not forget your passports when you go from Brazil to Argentina to visit the falls, and vice versa!



Category: Away from it all, BozAroundTheWorld, Fresh air, My guides, South America
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April 23rd, 2011 | 6:34pm by BozAround
 
 

The Best of Buenos Aires with Los Niños

22 Apr
2011

We came back to Buenos Aires after Mendoza, and all together have spent more than a week in the city. While I would not call BA a very family-friendly city, because it’s noisy and polluted, huge with lots of traffic, there are pleasant activities and itineraries to take with the children. What I found most fascinating in BA is the mix of old and new. A very unique city with lots of different parts of town to explore by foot.

On our 2nd stay, we rented one of the loft-apartment of Home Hotel. It’s an excellent place to stay with the family. You get the best of both worlds: an apartment with a kitchen and a small courtyard, very private, quiet and spacious, and you get all the great services of the hotel, swimming pool and staff help. It’s located in Palermo Hollywood, my favorite part of town in BA with San Telmos.
Here is Home Hotel’ Best of Buenos Aires with Kids, all tried and tested (almost!).
Buenos Aires Zoo, opened in 1988, with a surprisingly great diversity of animals. As per Marcelo: Better than Regent’s Park Zoo in London! People who live nearby complain they hear the lions roaring all the time. i think it’s a good sign. Right in the center of the city, in Palermo, Av. Sarmiento y Las Heras. Closed Mondays.
And right outside, you will see horse carriages…Marcelo and Amalya loved taking a stroll the old fashion way.
Interactive Science Museum (Forbidden NOT to touch). This is a super interactive science museum and Marcelo absolutely loved the place… while I got super stressed about not figuring out most of the experiments!!! It reminded me how bad I was at school with physics.
The museum is right in Recoleta by the famous Cemetery (a great place to visit too). It makes for a pleasant half day trip, to be followed by a mouth-watering and inexpensive lunch of empanadas at El Sanjuanino.
Botanical Gardens: designed by French landscape architect Carlos Thays in 1998. It’s in Palermo and there is also a lovely playground right beside it.
Parque Tres de Febrero: it’s Buenos Aires version of Hyde Park, or Central Park. In the middle lies a large pond with ducks, geese where boats can be rented, there are also bicycle rentals with a paved cycle around the lake. Rosedal, Parque 3 de Febrero in Palermo, very near the Botanical gardens.
Planetarium: There are telescope observing sessions several times a week, as well as sun sessions.
Museo Argentino del Titere (Puppet Museum): shows are held regularly.Puppets of all kinds, wooden, made of foam and rubber, articulated, made of papier mache, tango singers…It’s in the area of San Telmo (Piedras 905. Tel: 4307-6917 / 4304-4376)

In addition to the above children-centric places, these are some of BozAround favorites, equally easy on the children.

- A Sunday stroll in San Telmo…

Every Sunday, there’s the flea market of San Telmo. It’s not over crowded but beware of pickpockets. Enjoy a cheap and yummy lunch of empanadas (sooooo good) or pizza & pasta at Pedro Telmo (Bolivar, 962. Tel: 43 62 36 94), and stroll around with a few pesos in the pocket, to give away to the many street performers.

Marcelo found some super heroes comics at the market…

- A morning spent at La Boca…

La Boca is the notoriously dodgy yet most touristy part of the city, because of the very photogenic colourful streets (do NOT got there after dark!!). We went quite early in the morning and as such avoided the tourist buses. Loved it!! The atmosphere is very old-school, yet one of the most exciting art foundation in the city is there, PROA, with a Louise Bourgeois exhibition going on right now (and her famous spider which any child will be amazed at).

Marcelo and Ceki also visited the football stadium of Boca Junior, and we all met for a delicious Italian lunch at Il Matterello (MArtin Rodriguez, 517), an institution in the city.

In La Boca, I stumbled upon this store, owned by a very elegant Spanish-immigrant woman of 86 years old.

Beautiful vintage dresses and many other nostalgic objects. I don’t have the address but if you walk around, you might recognize it. She has had her shop for 25 years. She was so sweet, with such a gentle smile. I barely had any change on me, otherwise I could have bought so much. I left with a vintage silk dress, off-white, which I told myself Amalya might want one day (for her wedding?!)

- An afternoon in Palermo…

…Visiting the MALBA museum and its impressive collection of LAtin American contemporary art in a stunning modern construction. Nearby by is Persicco, for one of the best ice cream in town (remember, most of Argentines are of Italian-descent)..And not far is Plaza Alemana with a good playground. A great place to mingle with local children in their school uniforms at the end of the day.

You’ll find lots of guides about Buenos Aires so I won’t say much more about where to eat & shop…Just one address that I fell in love with: DIVIA. If you’re going to bring back one thing for yourself from Argentina, it’s shoes. And these ones are so beautiful and so unique.

 



Category: BozAroundTheWorld, City & Culture, My guides, South America
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April 22nd, 2011 | 8:32pm by BozAround
 
 

Wine tasting in Mendoza, Argentina. Children not permitted.

19 Apr
2011

We toured the wine region of Mendoza for 3 days, leaving the kids behind in Buenos Aires under the loving care of nonna. ¡Salud!

Mendoza is the 4th largest city in Argentina, and its wines are exported all over the world, especially the Malbec, which I am a big fan of. Actually Mendoza is about a 7 hours drive from Santiago De Chile crossing over the Andes and it’s supposed to be an incredibly scenic road. That would be a nice way to get there. We flew from BA, a 1h30 easy flight from the domestic airport right downtown BA.

We made our itinerary over 3 days: 2 nights in Mendoza city & 1 night in the country side in beautiful Valle del Uco (90min from the city). I think it was the right amount of time. Actually, after 4 winery visits the first day starting at 10am with our first tasting, I was ready to go on a detox…a result of five months going around the world and living healthily.

I enjoyed these 3 days for 3 reasons:

- Great wines

- Great architecture

- Great scenery

The two main wine producing areas around Mendoza are: Lujan de Cuyo outside the city, and the Uco Valley a bit further. It’s nice to spend at least one day in the first, and one day in the 2nd.

To visit Lujan de Cuyo, we based ourselves at a homey and welcoming b&b in downtown Mendoza called Casa Lila, simple and no fuss, wonderful hosts willing to help every bits. For dinner in town, everyone raves about 1884, a restaurant by the famous Argentine chef Francis Mallman, but I think it lives on its reputation. Azafran is a better option, relaxed on the sidewalks of Mendoza.

To visit the Uco Valley, we stayed at the posada of the Salentein winery, which is definitely not worth recommending.  There is apparently a wonderful relais&chateau called Cavas Wine Lodge, for pampering times. Or there are several wineries with rooms in the region. Watch out for Bodega Atemisque when it opens its posada. I think it will be beautiful because their winery is stunning, and beautifully located too.

Everyone advises to take a driver/guide when going wine tasting in the region. And I confirm it! Not only the wineries are not always easy to find, but they also often require appointments for visits…And if you plan 4 winery visits in a day like most people do, that’s on average 3 to 4 tastings per winery..I let you do the math for the don’t drink&drive formula. Our driver/guide was good, not the most chatty and willing to get out of his way type of person but he did put together a good itinerary: Javier on javiereppens@yahoo.com.ar

In Lujan de Cuyo, our favorite wineries are:

Achaval Ferrer. A smaller winery, only 5 years old, with 2 particularly good wines tasted: the Finca Mirador, and a dolce Malbec which I loved and can only be purchased at the winery.

Carmelo Patti. A one-man show (photo below, at his winery). A legend in Mendoza! He is what they call a garagista, ie a winemaker who does it all in their garage so to speak. And he has been doing some of the best wines in the region for close to 40 years, all by himself. He talked passionately about his wines and wines in general (in Spanish) and made a great impression on us. We were pleased to leave with an autographed bottle from Mr Carmelo Patti…

We enjoyed a five-course lunch at Bodega Vistalba, at their restaurant La Bourgogne. They also have 2 rooms in b&b inside the winery supposed to be nice. It’s pleasant to face the vineyards for lunch, and the food was good paired with good wines, but nothing to go home crazy about (so says the little Frenchie..)

Everyone recommends to visit Catena Zapata winery, maybe because it’s one of the biggest. I did not like it. The place is pompous and very touristy. The architecture is a strange and rather tasteless Mayan-style pyramide. But they did have a very good Angelica Zapata Malbec…

this is Carmelo Patti and his very old -school winery:

In Valle del Uco, our favorite wineries are:

Pulenta Estate. Super high-tech and stunning architecture, especially the cellar room. It’s a relatively young winery, like many in Mendoza, which says a lot about the dynamism in the region. They had a Gran Corte, a blend of Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot.

Atamisque. So beautiful! Such delicious wines! And no, I am not biased by the fact that the owner is French. The architecture, first, is stunning and so understated. Minimalist yet perfectly blending with the surrounding environment. From local architects Bormida y Yanzon who actually did most of the beautiful wineries in the region (see Pulenta Estate too). The Catalpa Malbec, and the Atamisque Malbec were particularly delicious. There is also a restaurant on the property where the specialty is trout as they have a trout farming. And soon a pousada…

Bodega Salentein. Another impressive architecture, very grand this time yet done by the same local architects Bormida y Yanzon. Salentein is completely geared to the visiting wine aficionado. There is a home theater showing the whole process of wine making, an in-house art gallery with Latin American artists featured. A very pleasant cafe/restaurant for lunch…Their Numina Malbec, and Primus Malbec are delicious.

Don’t waste time at the winery Andeluna in the same region. Very unpleasant staff, and the place looks like a mock-up of a provencale house. Out of place..

this is Bodega Atemisque:

this is Bodega Salentein:

BozAround tip: at Bodega Salentein, you will find cardboard boxes in their shop for 3, 6 or 12 bottles with a hard foam inside specially made to check it in the plane. And some smart bubble wrap for individual bottles, resealable. Very convenient after 3 days of wine tasting delicious Malbecs…

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Category: BozAroundTheWorld, City & Culture, Just the 2 of us, My guides, South America
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April 19th, 2011 | 1:42am by BozAround
 
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