BozAround


The 'activities' tag

 

playing around with two new travel apps

13 May
2011

Feel like playing around with some new apps on travels? these 2 have recently come to the market. They’re both free, and they both approach the idea of travelling by theme, through social networking…Ah the power of social networks, the new word of mouth in pr, isn’t it?

Fancy surfing in Sydney? Yes I do. Shopping in New York? Oh yes I really do. Check out e-bookers Explorer, it’s for iPad and is a bit like a travel magazine where you scroll trough pages, and can also share photos, videos and more. A great little gadget for inspiration.

And there’s Amble for iPhone, which allows you to create your own ambles aka your unique tours to share with your friends. It’s tres chic as it’s been launched by Louis Vuitton. Sofia Coppola, Christy Turlington and Sarah Jessica Parker are all amblers. They’re all moms too. So if it’s good for them, must be good for us too…

 

From my perspective, they’re coming to the market 5 months too late..but that’s just me.



Category: City & Culture, The experienced traveler
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May 13th, 2011 | 1:37pm by BozAround
 
 

Featuring Zid Zid Kids on Marrakech

28 Apr
2011

You’ve seen the little airplane backpack that Marcelo carries on the front page of BozAround…and you’ve asked me so many times where it’s from…Designed by the wonderfully creative husband-and-wife team behind Zid Zid Kids and proudly Made in Morocco! I have followed their work ever since we met in 2006, and I am a big fan. Their playful and colourful universe reminds me of my North African childhood (from neighboring Algeria). If only we could find their creations in more stores in Europe (any buyer reading?!), I would not have to fly to Marrakech this week end to get my Houb pillows (the very very last trip in our sabbatical, just the 2 of us). Everything they do always make for the perfect gift. Here, Julie shares her favourite addresses in Marrakech and around, a city you are better off visiting with insider’s tips if you don’t want to get lost in the Medina. Choukrane Julie!

The Zid Zid Kids family – portrait:

We are your average artistic, outdoor loving, multi-lingual, home cooked food adoring, explorer loving family! There is me Julie, I was born in Germany and raised in Ohio and NYC. There is Moulay, my graphic designer husband and business partner, born and raised in Casablanca, Morocco. There is Noor age 9, my muse and future budding playwright born in Cambridge, MA. There is Zak age 7, chief bug finder and future builder of tree houses, born in Marrakech, Morocco

We left Cambridge, MA for Marrakech, Morocco in the fall of 2002 and haven’t really looked back as there is so much to discover here.

Tell us about the philosophy of Zid Zid Kids and how Morocco inspires you:

Our philosophy is to incorporate time-tested traditions and combine them with bold modern styling while using only the best, most natural materials found locally. The spirit of our line is really blending the eclectic mix of the ancient spells of this place, marry it with rich fabrics and embody the creative spirit of each child into each piece we make. I draw much of my inspirations from Morocco as I love the handmade traditions found everywhere; whether it is knitting, pottery, metal, weaving, embroidering, sewing, candle making, tile making, word working, carving, you can find it all, thriving as it has for centuries.

Morocco is truly its own handmade nation. This always gets me incredibly inspired to join in the creative energy! I love having my own workshop, as I can tap directly into my inspirations at any time as well as have a 100% direct involvement with production from beginning to end. This is an important part of the creative process for me.

Your recommended itinerary for a family vacation in Marrakech and beyond:

If your time is short, say a week, then I recommend 3 days in the Medina or the Palmeraie…


If you love to be surrounded by old architecture, winding alleys, hustle & bustle, then a stay in the Medina is for you. There is nothing more stimulating than to have the excitement, colors, sounds, textures of the Medina around you and then step through an ancient door into the hushed luxury of a century old riad where you hear nothing but a fountain, the birds and be filled with the scent of floating jasmine and mint tea.

The kids will be dazzled by the fountains, cats, tiled floors, and interesting corners to be explored.

 

If you are more of a nature lover and prefer open spaces, then an outlying neighborhood that won’t disappoint is the Palmeraie, a very large Palm Oasis set right outside of Marrakech. Legend has it that this Oasis exists simply because centuries ago, when Moroccan soldiers had camped here, they ate many dates and from the remaining pits came the palm trees. In this oasis, you will be spoiled by incredible beauty of a Desert landscape.

And don’t let the word Desert scare you, this type of landscape is especially diverse, fascinating and surprisingly green in some areas. Stop to study the natural architecture around you and enjoy its lush setting. Here you can watch the sun set in peace surrounded by humbling palms that feel like old friends.

The kids will have non-stop fun exploring the strange bugs that can be found, climbing the palms and spending time with the camels.

Then 3 days exploring the Ourika Mountains…


After a few days getting your bearing in the city, hire a taxi to take you out towards the Atlas Mountains which the foothills are about an hour away. The Ourika Valley is filled with interesting villages, souks and you can get a feel for the real Morocco. The drive up is beautiful. You can easily hire a guide that will be able to provide you with as many mules as you need, so much fun for the kids, and tailor a hike just for you – half hour, hour and more.

Asni is a great region to explore. You can walk for 1-2 hours and make it back for a fresh lunch at any of the local rustic & charming French run hotels or catch a delicious slow cooked Berber tagine on the side of the road (where the locals eat).

Pick a little auberge at the foothills, refresh in rustic simplicity and explore the region!

These are good addresses:

- L’Oliveraie de Marigha – restaurant & piscine

- La Bergerie – lush yet rustic hotel, restaurant, piscine, mountain treks, gardens

- Or Near Toubkal, the famous Hotel Kasbah Toubkal – one of the best eco hotel in the world, sitting on an amazing site!

 

For Marrakech and beyond 15 days…

Get your fill of the Medina for 4 days and then pack yourselves for a Sahara Desert trek, with a 2 day stop in the stunning Palmeraie village of Skoura – the whole trip is kid heaven. Once in the Desert, ride the camels, scale the dunes, have couscous under the stars and tuck yourselves to sleep beautiful tents in the middle of the Desert….a trip your little ones will remember for a lifetime.

Zid Zid’ Zak drawing inspired in Marrakech

PLAY in MARRAKECH and beyond

When in town, we really love discovering fun of the Medina, le musee du Marrakech, the old palaces like le Palais du Badii for drawing, the Institute Francaise for concerts, films and books. Our favorite playground is located at Casa Botanica, the gorgeous pepiniere right outside of town. There you will find the delicious eco-friendly Café Flower Power, along with a great eco-friendly farm style park for kids.  Filled with color, light, flowers and so much more, this is a fav place to play and eat by far.

Then we love to be outdoors. Since there are little to no parks in town, we get out of town. For something not too far, Terre D’Amanar is wonderful for active kids and adults. You have a gorgeous eco landscape to play in. Situated next to 100,000 hectares of National Forest, you have zip lines, walking trails, wooden jungle gyms, art classes. It is a great way to spend the day.

Call Nourdine in the Palmeriae for Camel Rides & 4×4 Quad rentals: tel: +212 667 12 19 82

And stop at La Pause for lunch or for the day, an incredible desert spot outside of Marrakech

 

From there, we like to takes hikes in the Atlas Mountains or head south towards Agadir to a dramatic yet quiet, wild beachfront town called Mirleft.

The country of Morocco is an outdoor-centric kind of place and we love having the chance to explore so many diverse landscapes.

EAT in MARRAKECH

Café Flower Power located at the gorgeous pepiniere Casa Botanica (see description above) for fresh air and the freshest food - Route de Sidi Abdellah Ghiat (after Golf Royal), Marrakech +212 524 48 40 87

La Creperie as we loves crepes! And the kids love this little spot and its captain hook menu, small, next to school, great service and a fun parrot to keep everyone entertained. Yummy crepes are served for lunch and desert; you can have homemade apple cider on the side.  14 Petit Marche de Gueliz, Route de Targa. +212 524 43 22 08

La Bled du Grenadine is the perfect place for a chill out day next to the pool. Grenadine is a fun and funky hostess that will totally welcome you as if you’ve know her forever. You can swim the entire day, nap under her palms and then let her serve you the freshest, yummiest lunch, with almost everything coming from her garden. She is one of the best kept kid-friendly secrets in town.  Grenadine et Philippe SOUBIELLE +212 61 451 790. E-mail lebledgrenadine@gmail.com Km 5, route de l’Aeroport, Marrakech.

For just the 2 of us, definitely on the rooftop of Riad el Fenn…

SLEEP in MARRAKECH

This is very tough to choose as there are truly amazing places to stay here in Marrakech. I’ve narrowed it down to my favorite top 5, each one unique and offering something very special. I recommend choosing 1 place to stay and then hopping over to the others for their spa, boutique, lunch by the pool or for a candlelit dinner you won’t regret.

Jnane Tamsna – inside the Palmeraie.

Riad el Fenn – in the Medina.

Beldi Country Club – right outside of town

Peacock Pavilions – outside of town

La Pause – outside of town

SHOP in MARRAKECH

In the Medina

1. Lalla – great handbags & accessories, found on the first floor (French 1er étagè) of the restaurant Terrace des Epices inside the Medina. Shop here and the other great boutiques on the same floor and after head up to the terrace for a yummy lunch.

2. Souk des Epices for all your spices (a must to take home) and the classic little handmade leather camels and horses, always a hit!

3. The large flea market in Bab Khamis for crazy vintage finds at great prices

4. Riad el Fenn for gorgeous sequined wedding blankets

Outside the Medina

1. Atelier Nihal – gorgeous woven textiles with workshop on site. He is found in the design district of Sidi Ghanem, very good prices for incredible quality of work (atelier.nihal@hotmail.fr)

2. Nectarome on the Route du Ourika for essential oils, argan, great handmade soaps. If the time is right, they will serve you a nice tea and you can request a foot bath. Located on a pretty piece of land with gardens (nectarome@nectarome.com)

SMART TIPS

Tip #1: Bring the right clothes; Morocco is known as a cold country with a hot sun. Middle of the day you might be boiling, but then at night it cools down and you are searching for your sweater. Also, bring or buy light scarves, they are perfect to protect you from the dusty desert wind that kicks up, the sun, the cold and in case you end up somewhere more conservative.

Tip #2: Go with the flow! Marrakech can be a bit chaotic, just embrace and read any books/radio pieces by Tahir Shah – he will get you inspired and laughing at the same time.

Tip #3 – for shoppers, I recommend picking up this book, a perfect walking/shopping guide through the twisting Medina

And some more Reading Recommendations…

Tahir Shah , Paul Bowles, Maryam Montague  www.mymarrakesh.com, Susan Simon’s “Shopping in Marrakech”, ”TimeOut Marrakech”

 

You can find Zid Zid Kids in Marrakech in the Industrial Quarter known as Sidi Ghanem (+ 212 524 33 53 07) where they have their showroom and where they recently started a tri-lingual art classes for ages 4-6 & 7-9 (read more on their blog). You can also find them online at www.zidzid.us In New York, check out ABC Carpet & Home for the largest selection of Zid Zid products.



Category: Africa, City & Culture, Decoration, Inspiration, Just the 2 of us, Travel interviews
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April 28th, 2011 | 11:15pm by BozAround
 
 

Where Nature is stronger than Man

23 Apr
2011

As in Up (a favorite DVD night during our round the world), we followed Mr Fredricksen’s dream of seeing the largest waterfalls in South America and headed to Iguazu falls. Impressive..really. Nature is stronger than Man (i hope)

As the falls lie exactly at the border between Argentina and Brazil, you could choose to be based in either country, I don’t think it would make much of a difference. We chose the Brazilian side. However, for the visits, I do think it’s worth seeing the falls from both sides and spending at least 2 nights, maybe 3 to allow plenty of time.

The Argentine and Brazilian side differ quite a bit. You have a more panoramic view from the Brazilian side, but the trail there is rather short (about 1.5km) and can easily be done in half a day. On the Argentine side, you really need a full day. And then there are plenty of outdoor activities to take with the children if they are old enough for the adrenalin rush (rafting, boat trip to the falls, 4Wd in the jungle..)

Be prepared to be surrounded by tourists as there’s no way to avoid it unfortunately. The Brazilian side felt a bit calmer and the paths were all shaded by the trees.

To plan your stay, here are some BozAround tips…

- In the Argentina side, you travel for a while with a little train (not as fun as it sounds), and you have 3 main trails: the Devil’s throat (must-see), the Upper circuit (for good close ups from above) and the Lower circuit (for close ups from below). In the Inferior trail, you will get wet for sure, and beware that there are lots of stairs, making it rather tricky if you use a stroller. All together, it’s about 6km of trails on the Argentinian side.

- In the Brazilian side, you can take an excursion called Macuco Boat Safari, which I was dying to do, but Marcelo and Amalya would have been too scared (I don’t think I would do it with children less than 10 years old although there is no age limit). You take a boat trip all the way to the falls, super close up, and come back. It last 35min and the boat takes you and brings you back to the shore. Sounds fun.

- You can do a similar high-adrenalin boat trip on the Argentinian side but there, the boat takes you close to the falls and leaves you on a trail where there is then the long walk.

- There are additional ecological trails offered on either side going in the forest, they can be booked the same day. We did not have time to do those and I regretted. The thick jungle is beautiful, and there are tons of birds species.

- The helicopter ride above the falls is pricey, but quite worth it. You can only do it the Brazilian side as Argentina does not do it for ecological reasons (although the verdict is out there on the real impact). It’s US$100 per person, but young children won’t pay (Marcelo,5, and Amalya,2, sat on our laps and it was fine). You can’t book it in advance. Just show up at the helicopter pad before the entrance of the national park, between 9am and 5pm.

- We found a really nice taxi driver at the Argentine airport, and agreed on a deal for the next day to take us back and forth from Argentina and Brazil. Pablo Barreto Tel: 03757-15416047 / Cel: 054-3757-15540089 or pablinbarreto@hotmail.com.

Feeling like Mr Fredricksen from the helicopter ride…Up, Up, Up

Ps: Do not forget your passports when you go from Brazil to Argentina to visit the falls, and vice versa!



Category: Away from it all, BozAroundTheWorld, Fresh air, My guides, South America
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April 23rd, 2011 | 6:34pm by BozAround
 
 

After thoughts from visiting the Recoleta cemetery

23 Apr
2011

I was debating for a little while whether to keep these words below for myself, but in the end, I find them so touching and expressive of what a 5-year old might think of after-life that I decided to share them with you.

We visited the famous and worthwhile seeing Recoleta cemetery in Buenos Aires. It was Marcelo’s first time ever visit to a cemetery and as you might be aware with your own children, 5-year old is the age of quite a few metaphysic questions. As we are a bit of a hybrid family when it comes to religion, I had never really talked about death & after-life with Marcelo…This visit brought a lot of questions and an open discussion, which I think was a healthy way to talk about a rather difficult subject.

 

This is what Marcelo told me that night, before going to sleep:

Maman, you know what…

When there will only be your bones,

I will re-build you, and I will hold your hand,

And I will cuddle with you.

I will never bury you.

I will put you in my bedroom in your box, and I will sleep next to you.

 

Wishing you a Happy Easter or Happy Passover in case you celebrate them this week end.



Category: BozAroundTheWorld, City & Culture, Inspiration, South America
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April 23rd, 2011 | 11:18am by BozAround
 
 

The Best of Buenos Aires with Los Niños

22 Apr
2011

We came back to Buenos Aires after Mendoza, and all together have spent more than a week in the city. While I would not call BA a very family-friendly city, because it’s noisy and polluted, huge with lots of traffic, there are pleasant activities and itineraries to take with the children. What I found most fascinating in BA is the mix of old and new. A very unique city with lots of different parts of town to explore by foot.

On our 2nd stay, we rented one of the loft-apartment of Home Hotel. It’s an excellent place to stay with the family. You get the best of both worlds: an apartment with a kitchen and a small courtyard, very private, quiet and spacious, and you get all the great services of the hotel, swimming pool and staff help. It’s located in Palermo Hollywood, my favorite part of town in BA with San Telmos.
Here is Home Hotel’ Best of Buenos Aires with Kids, all tried and tested (almost!).
Buenos Aires Zoo, opened in 1988, with a surprisingly great diversity of animals. As per Marcelo: Better than Regent’s Park Zoo in London! People who live nearby complain they hear the lions roaring all the time. i think it’s a good sign. Right in the center of the city, in Palermo, Av. Sarmiento y Las Heras. Closed Mondays.
And right outside, you will see horse carriages…Marcelo and Amalya loved taking a stroll the old fashion way.
Interactive Science Museum (Forbidden NOT to touch). This is a super interactive science museum and Marcelo absolutely loved the place… while I got super stressed about not figuring out most of the experiments!!! It reminded me how bad I was at school with physics.
The museum is right in Recoleta by the famous Cemetery (a great place to visit too). It makes for a pleasant half day trip, to be followed by a mouth-watering and inexpensive lunch of empanadas at El Sanjuanino.
Botanical Gardens: designed by French landscape architect Carlos Thays in 1998. It’s in Palermo and there is also a lovely playground right beside it.
Parque Tres de Febrero: it’s Buenos Aires version of Hyde Park, or Central Park. In the middle lies a large pond with ducks, geese where boats can be rented, there are also bicycle rentals with a paved cycle around the lake. Rosedal, Parque 3 de Febrero in Palermo, very near the Botanical gardens.
Planetarium: There are telescope observing sessions several times a week, as well as sun sessions.
Museo Argentino del Titere (Puppet Museum): shows are held regularly.Puppets of all kinds, wooden, made of foam and rubber, articulated, made of papier mache, tango singers…It’s in the area of San Telmo (Piedras 905. Tel: 4307-6917 / 4304-4376)

In addition to the above children-centric places, these are some of BozAround favorites, equally easy on the children.

- A Sunday stroll in San Telmo…

Every Sunday, there’s the flea market of San Telmo. It’s not over crowded but beware of pickpockets. Enjoy a cheap and yummy lunch of empanadas (sooooo good) or pizza & pasta at Pedro Telmo (Bolivar, 962. Tel: 43 62 36 94), and stroll around with a few pesos in the pocket, to give away to the many street performers.

Marcelo found some super heroes comics at the market…

- A morning spent at La Boca…

La Boca is the notoriously dodgy yet most touristy part of the city, because of the very photogenic colourful streets (do NOT got there after dark!!). We went quite early in the morning and as such avoided the tourist buses. Loved it!! The atmosphere is very old-school, yet one of the most exciting art foundation in the city is there, PROA, with a Louise Bourgeois exhibition going on right now (and her famous spider which any child will be amazed at).

Marcelo and Ceki also visited the football stadium of Boca Junior, and we all met for a delicious Italian lunch at Il Matterello (MArtin Rodriguez, 517), an institution in the city.

In La Boca, I stumbled upon this store, owned by a very elegant Spanish-immigrant woman of 86 years old.

Beautiful vintage dresses and many other nostalgic objects. I don’t have the address but if you walk around, you might recognize it. She has had her shop for 25 years. She was so sweet, with such a gentle smile. I barely had any change on me, otherwise I could have bought so much. I left with a vintage silk dress, off-white, which I told myself Amalya might want one day (for her wedding?!)

- An afternoon in Palermo…

…Visiting the MALBA museum and its impressive collection of LAtin American contemporary art in a stunning modern construction. Nearby by is Persicco, for one of the best ice cream in town (remember, most of Argentines are of Italian-descent)..And not far is Plaza Alemana with a good playground. A great place to mingle with local children in their school uniforms at the end of the day.

You’ll find lots of guides about Buenos Aires so I won’t say much more about where to eat & shop…Just one address that I fell in love with: DIVIA. If you’re going to bring back one thing for yourself from Argentina, it’s shoes. And these ones are so beautiful and so unique.

 



Category: BozAroundTheWorld, City & Culture, My guides, South America
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April 22nd, 2011 | 8:32pm by BozAround
 
 

Stopping at Jose Ignacio, Uruguay for beach time.

15 Apr
2011
I am experimenting posting from my iPad…sorry if it doesnt come out all nice and clean. I lost ONCE AGAIN something somewhere!! This time, it’s the plug of my computer, which is now out of battery. This is the most frustrating part of our round the world, we can’t help forgetting things in places, and usually in places that we loved. Hope its a sign that we’ll be back. One day I will make an inventory…
So while my plug stayed in Jose Ignacio, Uruguay, I can still tell you what we LOVED about the place. First, the lighthouse (photo above), which makes this  -originally fisherman’s – village so iconic. The light also, so clean and pure, the sky with stars, so big. And the people in Uruguay everywhere so gentle and kind. Such gentlemen and handsome too..! I’d say, a mix of the roughness of the gauchos with the classiness of the polo players. The waves, big and still warm. The quietness as we got there at the end of the season (apparently January is to be avoided, a Latin American version of St Tropez…). I would say it’s understated luxury at its best. And off season, the prices are not so bad, and all negotiable.
I was inspired to visit Uruguay by an article last year in Conde Nast Traveller titled Barefoot on the Beach, from journalist Peter Browne. Since I don’t know how to put hyperlinks on my iPad, I will let you google it.
With plenty of time, the way to “do” the uruguayan coast is from Carmelo, then Colonia del Sacramento, then Montevideo, then la Barra and Jose Ignacio, la Paloma, la Pedrera, and finish in unspoilt Cabo Polonio towards the Brazilian border.

We focused on Jose Ignacio because it’s a quaint little village on the beach extremely child friendly as everything is walking distance. We rented a beautiful and colourful house (on the photo above, the green house) through Marcelo (!) at Inmobiliaria Ruibal, who was so dedicated to helping us. Gracias Marcelo.
Really, it’s so hard posting with my iPad, I will do this post with photos mostly. Do ask me if you ever plan on visiting the region, it is so beautiful and tasteful at the same time. I could say so much more if only I had my computer…
We stopped at CasaPueblo, an iconic hotel before Punta del Este, designed by the Uruguayan artist Carlos Paez Vilaro. Below is his studio, overlooking the Atlantic. I wish it was my office too…There is a museum with a permanent retrospective of the artist’ works, and a small cafe on the terrace with a marvelous view. Maravillosa!
It’s also nice to take the children to the sculpture park foundation of Pablo Atchugarry, right on Ruta 104km 4,500, in Manatiales. And there’s a cute little zoo right nearby, with a tiger. Marcelo was reminded of his cuddling times with tigers in Thailand.
The region is strong on art, with a lot of very interesting artists from South America. There was an article in the NY Times magazine recently specifically about it, to be googled…
In the morning, we were getting our fish ultra fresh directly on the beach of Jose Ignacio (Playa Mansa) from the fishermen’s boat. I was proud of my ceviche…
And the region is strong on architect-houses, many out of the most beautiful magazines in the world. Wealthy argentines, mostly, who come here in the season or the week end to get some beach time. Playa Vik is an incredible example (like it or not) of Titanium and Glass. It’s a hotel which opened last year and designed by Uruguayan architect Carlos Ott. Artists from all over South America have been commissioned for each room. Quite surprising in this little village.
The beach house above was my favourite in the village, and also one of the oldest, designed by a well known Uruguayan architect whom I forgot the name..I know. Sorry..
This one below was very shabby-chic, looked like the first strong wind was going to blow it up, yet still standing proud on the beach. Sweet.
And long lunches of grilled fish at La Huella, children playing in the sand. A restaurant so delicious that people drive from all over the coast to come over the week end. Right there in Jose Ignacio. And Pisco Sour to die for, just before la siesta for everyone…
Plenty of activities for the family. Surfing on the beach of Playa Brava, waves were not that intimidating. Or horseback riding barefoot on the beach, with the horses of Jorge aka El Negrito who comes in front of La Huella with his 4 horses every afternoon.
We actually learnt to kite surf (sort of !!) at Laura Monino Kite surf / windsurf school. The best!! On Laguna Garzon, a beautiful eco-reserve, with shallow depth and constant wind, ideal conditions. Laura is so kind too, and owns a charming pousada near by, Halelau, that would be a great option with the family.
Hola chicos. Que tal. Que lindo..
BozAround tips:
- Rent a car with Interautos. They’ll come meet you straight at the arrival or departure terminal of Montevideo airport. And their prices are unbeatable. Speak with Gustavo (interautos@adinet.com.uy)
- Come here off-season to avoid the show-off factor. And bypass Punta del Este, a LatAm version of South Beach Miami. They say it’s coming back, but I am allergic to this kind of big developments on the beach.
- Make time to go up the coast all the way to Cabo Polonio. It sounds amazing. I am sad we could not go. No electricity, no cars, sand dunes only. And a few posadas.
- Pick up a map of Jose Ignacio at the tiny tourist information on the main square, It has everything you need.
- Posada del Faro has one of the best reputation in the village of Jose ignacio. And Casa Chic looked…quite chic and ideally located near the beach inside the village, with a small kitchen and separate bedroom for the family. Or Posada Halelau outside town for a more affordable option.
Ps: by the time i finished writing this article, i found my plug!!! youpi! so i put in some links..but i did not re-write everything..sorry if it’s a bit decousu…besos.


Category: Away from it all, BozAroundTheWorld, Fresh air, My guides, Play Time, Sea Sand Sun, South America
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April 15th, 2011 | 7:21pm by BozAround
 
 

Retro times in Colonia, Uruguay: a perfect day trip from Buenos Aires

8 Apr
2011

I like Buenos Aires, but I did not remember how busy, dusty and noisy it is. It must be that 10 years ago when I first visited, I did not have children. I liked going out til late in the night, and you don’t see things the same way at 20 than at 30 (ok, 28 and 38). People go out for diner at 10pm here, not so feasible with little ones! Or maybe it’s just an urban allergy that I have developed after all those empty lands that we have been through in Patagonia.

So it was a pleasant breath of fresh air to cross the Rio de la Plata and go visit the colonial town of Colonia del Sacramento in Uruguay. Its historic part (dates back to 1680) is a Unesco World Heritage site.

I think this photo epitomizes Colonia: retro, colourful houses, bougainvilleas everywhere, paved roads, relaxed cafes. Only the view on Rio de la Plata is missing from the photo. And my Marcelito is not normally part of the decor.

How to get there / Where to stay:

Colonia del Sacramento is a smooth boat trip from downtown Buenos Aires, making for an easy day trip. Prefer the express buquebus 1h ride, and know that it’s best to book the tickets a few days in advance for a good fare. I think it’d be sweet to spend the night there in one of the many posadas as many places open only at night. El Capullo seemed particularly inviting. Posada del Angel is another recommended address.

Things to do with the chicos in Colonia:

Walk around and get lost (not for long as it’s tiny!) in the cobbled stone streets. Go up the faro aka lighthouse (children under 12 can’t). Rent a buggy (pricey! but it’s like everything else in Colonia, beware) and drive around to the beach. Eat ice cream al dulce de leche. Enjoy tea time with cake al dulce de leche. Eat pure dulce de leche and watch the children go crazy from the sugar overload!!

Have a long lunch in the courtyard of La Florida, the chef Carlos Bidanchon is a slow-food adherent and a great character himself. Or El Rincon for a simple parilla in a beautiful location right on the river. And for tea-time, the best-kept secret of Colonia is Lentas Maravillas on Santa Rita, 61. Loved it.

So we’ve crossed the Rio de la Plata from Buenos Aires to Colonia, and have therefore crossed a border this time by boat. Something that Marcelo found particularly fun…

We marveled at the architecture in Colonia, a mix of colonial colourful houses, and here and there some modernist constructions, such as this cafe (above, right) with a cactus garden overlooking the river…

More on Uruguay soon as we’re discovering this rather unvisited tiny little country in South America, squeezed between Argentina and Brazil…



Category: BozAroundTheWorld, City & Culture, Family reunion, My guides, South America
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April 8th, 2011 | 12:32pm by BozAround
 
 

In-flight origami workshop, from Santiago to Patagonia

25 Mar
2011

I have an idea…how great it would be if airlines could offer origami workshops to children during long flights. Well, at least that was sort of our luck on the 4hours trip between Santiago and Punta Arenas in the far south of Chile (real far! the southernmost city on earth!).  Not a flight attendant, but Marcelo’s very sweet and origami-talented seat-neighbour: Marcela (obviously, I loved her name to start with).

Marcelo and Marcela making origamis in the plane:


They used the food tray paper mats to make the origamis


Really, sometimes you go to places and you see wonders. And ultimately, you meet people and they touch your heart more than all the beauties around. Marcela is a school teacher for under-privileged children in a small town near Chiloe, an island off the Pacific coast in South Chile. The children in her class are all very poor, she was telling me. Not poor as we commonly think of it as they all have enough to eat. They are terribly poor because they desperately lack material to learn, to be stimulated, to broaden their horizons. Marcela learnt from a young age how to make origami, from a little Taiwanese girl who was in her class in Santiago. Since then, she has been improving her skills and passing on her knowledge to the children that she teaches to at school.

She was so kind and patient with Marcelo. I could only imagine her at school with her 30 pupils (a class from 5 until 14 all together) making red and green origami stars for the Christmas tree. Then Marcela told me her personal story, that 2 years ago she was hit by a car as she was leaving for Spain for a post-graduate degree in education. The accident was so bad that she’s had 10 operations since then, including one this week. Hence her flying with us today. Luckily she has recovered all of her very kind smile, and more. A strong woman indeed. I am sure that Marcelo will remember Marcela more than all the penguins we have seen this afternoon in Sono Otway.

Marcela, esa flor es para usted de parte de Marcelo. Gracias!

 



Category: BozAroundTheWorld, Education, Inspiration, Play Time, South America
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March 25th, 2011 | 9:31pm by BozAround
 
 

JM Cousteau Fiji eco-resort is the perfect family getaway

16 Mar
2011

It’s rare to find a resort that combines all the dream factors at once. I am normally not the type to enjoy all-inclusive places because I don’t like pre-packaged vacations. But JM Cousteau Fiji eco-resort is quite different, truly a gem. We have been touched by the beauty of the place as much as the people. It’s low key yet quite pampering, it’s easy going yet very professional and best of all is the children’s club. We could not have wished for a better surprise. Thank you TripAdvisor!!

Here’s why:

- It’s only 25 individual bures (ie. wood and straw cottages) so it does feel very intimate even though you spend your whole time at the resort, eating, playing, drinking, swimming, scuba diving, snorkeling… They’re nothing crazy fancy, but just the right amount of comfort and island style decor.

- there’s a fantastic kids club, especially for families with young children. A nanny is attributed to each child under 5, and a buddy to each child over 5 every day from 8am until 9pm!! All included in the price, and up to 2 children per family sleep and eat free.

Kessa, Marcelo and Amalya all chic and ready for a Sunday morning outing to the local church

- The 220 staff (for only 25 bure!!) is all local, from the villages around, yet very professional and experienced as they have been working there for years, carefully trained by the management. There is a genuine conviviality that creates a wonderful atmosphere. You arrive,and are greeted by a sincere Welcome Home. Loved it.

- The scope of activities is huge, which was so different than our expectations of an island resort. We left after a week frustrated that we could not do everything. We did learn to scuba dive and are now PADI Open Water certified, an achievement we’re quite proud of!! Especially to have learnt at one of French marine explorer Mr Cousteau’s center. You can go kayaking, snorkeling with the marine biologist on residence, trekking to waterfalls or to the surrounding villages..Every day there is a program for adults with lots of good activities.

Colourful bus for the afternoon excursions, and Marcelo snorkeling with his buddy Davis

- The program in the children’s club is equally attractive. Kayaking in the glass bottom kayak or going in the boat, Marcelo learnt to snorkel thanks to Davis, his super nice buddy. Painting tee shirts with a big BULA (pronounced Boolah = hello!) on it, collecting sea shells, playing in one of the 3 swimming pools specially for children, learning to play chess with the giant chess board, and many more.. At every dinner, 3 or 4 guitarists come by and sing for the children some local music. It’s all very caring and natural.

- The food was really good and varied even though it’s just one restaurant in the resort. The massages were perfect, and there’s even a free internet connection throughout, and no tv’s or phones, which I thought was the right order of priority.

It’s far, very far to come here, especially if you live in Europe. But it’s soooo worth it if you’re looking to be away from it all.

 



Category: Australia / New Zealand, Away from it all, BozAroundTheWorld, Family reunion, Play Time, Sea Sand Sun
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March 16th, 2011 | 3:58am by BozAround
 
 

Up on the Australian East coast, Byron Bay to Fraser island

13 Mar
2011

(I am backtracking a bit, to finish telling you about Australia). After we cancelled our plans in NZ due to the earthquake, we were left a bit puzzled and unsure of where to go. Looking back, we are so pleased we got a chance to explore Australia further as it was not initially ranking high on our list of dream-destinations. We retrieved to Sydney for a few days (which now feels like home!), and from there took a low cost flight to Byron Bay (Ballina airport) and chased the sun. We literally checked the weather every day.

First stop: The Shed with a View outside the small town of Bangalow, a 15 min drive inland from the beautiful beaches of Byron Bay.

Yes, this was the view from our shed when we woke up. (6am, always punctual, thank you Amalya…Ok, sometimes it’s 5:45am…)

This is the hippie / sydneysider creative families gone rural / small farm land where all things eco and organic matter. Loved it! When you drive inland from the coast, they call it the hinterland, a term I’ve got to use and abuse as I just love the way it sounds. The Hinterlands. The Shed with a View does exactly what it promises, ie. a small and simple little house but nicely appointed, with the most beautiful view over the never ending green valleys (book it through The Earth House, same owners).

Hens, goose, cows, Chocolate the labrador and countless insects visited us while we were there. Life was simple and easy, complete with outdoor shower with sometimes cold water, and eco-toilets ie. compostable non-flush (have you ever tried? A real experience in itself!) A small corner of paradise in the countryside, yet very near the beautiful beach of Byron Bay (our favorite: clark beach, near the ice cream shop). The owners Jackie and Alistair are a very kind and down to earth couple who used to own a huge farm in the center of Australia (loved their family tales of schooling with morse code, and getting mail once a week with the groceries!).

Activities in the day included walking in the national parks in the area, visiting surrounding macadamia and pecan nuts farms, seeing a beautiful waterfall and spending the sunset at the beach.

Second stop: The Glass House mountains, just past the border into the state of Queensland (yes, the one that has got all the terrible natural disasters these past few months, cyclones, floodings etc.. it’s all over now). Stayed at a really low key and super friendly lodge named appropriately the Glass House Eco-Lodge.  The area has beautiful landscape and is rich in aboriginal culture. And from there we were just 10 min away from the big Australia Zoo of late Steve Irwin aka The Crocodile Hunter. I got a bit fed up of feeding animals and visiting sanctuaries by then but it’s always a trade-off when you travel, isn’t it?

They offer poney riding at the Australia zoo…And the children can cuddle with the kangaroos too.

Third Stop: Noosa Heads one hour north, famed for its beach and its natural park. Did not see much as the weather was lousy (no really, thank you Mr Weather Channel..) but the washing machines at Maison Noosa were super efficient and did not require coins, a big plus when you’re traveling for five months.

the wonders of Apple…an iPad on my left, a Macbook on my right…

Last Stop: Fraser Island, the largest sand island in the world (2h30 drive north), and a World-Heritage protected place with an amazing eco-system. We did 2 days there, sleeping at Kingfisher Bay resort, which was perfectly comfortable and pleasant. But I regretted not having enough time to research for a good camping site.

You can’t bring your campervan or your car to Fraser Island and it’s only accessible to 4 WD (above, the 4 WD bus from our day tour with Kingfisher bay resort), but there are many campsites for a base, as long as you are part of a group or well organized, which we were not. The highlights of our stay on famous Fraser island: taking a short flight over the island and landing on the beach, seeing the shipwreck, swimming in lake McKenzie, swimming in the cold streams and trekking through the dense forest. Breathe in…Breathe out…

From then, it was back to Brisbane airport, for our non stop flight  to Nadi International airport aka the paradise of FIJI. We’re in heaven. Will send pictures soon ’cause the words won’t do it justice.

SO LONG AUSTRALIA.

 

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Category: Australia / New Zealand, Away from it all, BozAroundTheWorld, Fresh air, Play Time, Sea Sand Sun
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March 13th, 2011 | 3:53am by BozAround