BozAround


The 'adventure' tag

 

A (family) night in the desert

I’d like to tell you a bit about our recent trip to Oman, officially called the Sultanate of Oman. While we went there primarily to seek some sun and rest in the middle of the long English winter (read: we started with 5 nights in a family-geared sea-side resort called Zighy Bay, stunning location but must improve the family-geared aspect hence I wont speak so much about it here), we managed to have a bit of exciting family adventure in the desert, the highlight of our vacation.

It was the first time I (and we) were visiting the Arabian Peninsula (apart from a business trip to Dubai which had made me ‘allergic’ to those bling bling newly built cities….Btw, Oman/ Muscat is very different, much more authentic). When doing the maths (8hours flight time + flight cost + year end premium + 4hours time difference), Oman came up as a winner vs. all the other sunny destinations we could have gotten to from London at this time of the year. Indeed it was an easy trip, starting with my first flight aboard an A380 (amazing!!! so spacious! so silent!!).

The highlight was our New Year’s eve night in the Wahiba Sands, a part of the desert located 3 hours drive from the capital Muscat. All of us enjoyed it.

   

From the million-stars sky to the bedouin tent and no-electricity camp, to the camel ride on the dunes, and the sand-board ride with the children…

(photo above) This was our camp, Safari Desert Camp, reached after 30min driving off-piste in the desert, 25km from the closest town (some people drive themselves but I strongly recommend hiring a driver if you’re not used to driving on sand dunes!). A true Bedouin-style camp, owned by a Bedouin family. No swimming pool, no electricity. The real deal, but with style and (some) comfort:-)

This (photo above) was our tent, number 1. If you ever stay there, make sure to request a tent and not a hut as it’s infinitely more charming and authentic. they have about 10 tents in the camp, and maybe 5 or 6 huts made of concrete, probably more comfortable but so much less charming.

The tent was perfectly suited to a family of 4, with beautiful real beds, floors covered with colourful carpets, and tiny openings in the tent to see the stars and the moonlight.

   

At night, we were treated to a wonderful evening of traditional music and dance to celebrate the new year. Amalya stood up fearless, dancing under the torchlight with all the bedouin women dressed in their colourful outfits, while Marcelo fell slowly asleep on the pillows, to the beat of the drums.

…And then, we all headed to sleep at 9pm under the stars, wishing this would be the prelude to a beautiful new year.

May all your dreams come true.

Happy New Year x



 
 

Glamping must-have accessory #2: Falcon enamelware

Enamelware is the perfect glamping companion. It’s ultra resistant, gets cleaned in a second without leaving stains, cannot burn and it’s soooo utilitarian-chic.

Ice-white with a distinctive blue rim, Falcon enamelware has been an icon of British home life since the 1920′s. A new range & new colours have just launched, a collaboration between London-based designers KIWI&POM and Morse Studio. I spotted their products this past week end at a small but perfectly edited design show called Tramshed in East London. With very soft lines and simple colour combinations such as sky blue and pigeon grey, Falcon is bringing back to life those old pieces we used to find at grandma’s house or on scouts trips.

      

Out plasticware! In enamelware!

All photo credits: Sam Stowell



 
 

let the safari begin

It’s not easy to take a family to an African safari experience. It’s extremely costly (Africa as a continent hasn’t really found a way yet between rough and luxury traveling outside of the most touristy places), it often requires a bunch of vaccines which either are not recommended for the little ones, or are just a pain to get – I remember for our honeymoon, we went gorilla trekking in the mountains of Uganda and had to get a rabies shot, something the nurse in NY had never administered before!.

So it’s usually recommended to wait til the children are a bit older to go to Africa. Meanwhile, you can bring a bit of African wildlife to the nursery room with these beautiful papier mache heads from Dwell Studio. Have you noticed the latest craze with papier mache? Love it!

Made with vintage French book pages, dwell studio is producing them in collaboration with a Haiti-based non-profit organization and each piece is handmade.

  

 

Cruelty-free, ethically made. For a new safari generation.

Ps: they’re available online only.



 
 

travellers’ communities

There are more and more resources on the web to find accomodations away from the classic hotel rooms. And it’s making the idea of travelling all the more exciting. In a post last year titled My house is yours. Your house is mine. I talked about some smart home swapping websites.

The following two online platforms revolve around the idea of creating communities of like-minded & free-spirited travellers who are looking for budget accommodations when travelling around. They’re not exactly geared to the travelling family with young children, but I am sure that they’ll get there eventually. Or other sites will.

Airbnb – With over 60,000 active listings in 12,663 cities in 181 countries, Airbnb is an amazing resource AND a real pleasure to browse. It connects owners of (short term) apartment or home rentals with travellers (and it’s backed by supersexy Ashton Kutcher himself). The site is nicely designed and gives the possibility to take a peak at people’s homes from close ups. It’s mostly studios and small apartments in the database, but it could work well for young families. There’s a rating system just like on TripAdvisor, so you know what others in the community have experienced. I tried with Istanbul and Sydney and found the choice of places and locations quite exciting.

Couch surfing – This is a non profit organization that connects travellers with…couches and cultural experiences ie. places to stay for free at people’s homes with the view of sharing a piece of life: We have a vision of a world where everyone can explore and create meaningful connections with the people and places they encounter. It’s extremely successful with the younger crowd, and our summer au pair has been finding free accommodations all over the world thanks to Couch surfing. I was amazed when I heard about it and I secretly wished it existed when I was backpacking and internet barely existed (how prehistoric does that sound). Well, if I am not going to sleep on someone’s couch anymore, maybe we can lend ours once in a while and see who’s coming for dinner. The children might like that..

…to be continued



 
 

Featuring CrewCuts on the Yucatan Peninsula, Mexico

I was so excited when Laura Shippey, design director for girls at Crewcuts, suggested to report on her family getaway to the Yucatan for BozAround. Not only have I not covered this part of the world, but I am also a HUGE fan of Crewcuts, a brand you would only know if you have spent time in the USA. That’s about to change..yeahh! So in case you are not familiar with it: Crewcuts is the kids line of American superstar brand J.Crew, an excellent mix of quality, long-lasting styles with a good dose of hipness and great pricing. Something very rare for a large established brand. And they do it season after season, with many exciting brand collaborations too (remember this old post about mini Steve McQueen?).


Tell us about your family:

We are an English family living in Brooklyn, New York since 2007 when I scooped a job with J. Crew designing their Crewcuts line. My name is Laura, my husband, Simon is a musician and our son Noah is 8 and is a Lego enthusiast, bookworm and aspiring rock star! As for Crewcuts, it is probably best described as classics with a modern and playful twist. The focus is on quality and colour with a simple sophistication that aims to appeal to the kids as well as their parents!

What is special about The Yucatan Peninsula:

It holds an incredible mixture of both ecological and archeological richness. The Caribbean coast has pristine white sand beaches and a wonderfully laid back atmosphere. For us, it was the perfect combination of relaxation and a sense of discovery and adventure. It’s less than 2 hours south of Cancun, a not-so-exciting place but a large airport with many international connections.

Your suggested itinerary:

We spent 5 days at the beach area of Tulum, where the Caribbean sea is usually very calm and safe for kids to play in. We were all very happy just to chill on the beach, play in the sea and generally unwind for the first couple of days.

And at the end of a beach day…

From Tulum we took a day trip to the beautiful Sian Ka’an Biosphere, a nature reserve that covers over 1.3 million acres.

We arranged our tour with Mexico Kan Tours, and our guide Miguel was excellent; incredibly knowledgeable  about the wildlife in the biosphere as well as the anthropological history. The trip included a wonderful float down a shallow, crystal clear channel through the grassy coastal wetlands on a life vest, so peaceful!

And on the 3rd day we hired bikes and cycled to a small cenote along the Tulum road. Cenotes are naturally formed sinkholes in the pourous limestone shelf that makes up the Yucatan Peninsula. We splashed about and snorkled admiring the beautiful fish resting there.

From Tulum we hired a car and headed off to Merida, the largest city in the region with beautiful colonial architecture where the houses are painted fresh colours every 3 months. We stopped by the famous Mayan ruins of Chichen Itza on our way. While undoubtedly awe – inspiring, this site is slightly marred by the huge amount of day-trippers from Cancun, and the resulting fact that you can no longer climb any of the structures.

If you hanker after a more Indiana Jones type experience, then you would be advised to visit a lesser known site in the area, such as Coba, Muyil, or Ek Balam.

This is Muyil:

The following day we drove through many beautiful villages with fruit stalls selling fresh mangos, coconuts and papaya towards the gulf coast and town of Celestun in the hope of seeing Flamingos. After a morning splashing on the beach we took a fascinating boat trip through the mangroves and lagoons, seeing spectacular herons, king fishers and huge termite nests but sadly no flamingos!

On our final day we went to the most incredible Mayan ruins called Ek Balam near the town of Valladolid. These ruins are fairly recently discovered and amazingly well preserved. There are some incredible life size carvings of warriors with huge wings on their backs. Noah loved climbing the very steep steps to the top of the palace complex from which we got a fantastic view over the surrounding jungle.

EAT:

We had many wonderful meals in Tulum!

Tierras Del Sol is an Argentinian restaurant with no menu but 7 small appetizers brought one after the other and your choice of grilled meat for the main course. We went twice because we loved it so much, one evening choosing the fish and the other the steak. I will never forget the accompanying potatoes with caramelised garlic!

As featured on The Selby, Hartwood was set up recently by Brooklyn chefs Eric Verner and Mya Henry. The food is organic and comes from the farmers market in Valladolid. Noah particularly enjoyed the coconut cake. There’s a feast of photos on the Selby website.

For a more casual meal we ate often at Las Ranitas which is also a family friendly hotel.

For ice cream Posada Margherita further up the beach is pretty special.

 

SLEEP

We loved our cabana at  La Via Latkea, which literally means the Milky Way in Spanish. It was at the quiet end of the beach, had comfortable beds and a clean bathroom with hammocks outside to read our books and take our siestas in!

SHOP

Merida is famed for its hats and hammocks and there are many shops selling all kinds of traditional artifacts. Noah was very happy to find a shark tooth necklace at the beach in Celestun.

A few words of advise:

My first recommendation is to take advantage of the incredibly knowledgable guides at both the nature reserves and the archeological sites. Their expertise makes the experience of exploring so much richer. Secondly don’t drink the water and avoid ice in your drinks.

Crewcuts is available online with shipping currently within the U.S, Canada and Japan and to the UK starting this Autumn. See the website for store locations across the U.S.

New York Flagship stores:

Tribeca: 50 Hudson NY10013 - Madison: 1190 Madison Avenue NY10128 - Soho: 99 Prince street NY10012 - 5th Avenue: 91 5TH Ave NY10003



 
 

BozAroundTheWorld – the end

We are finishing our Round the World today. Last stop, Rio de Janeiro. Right where we started, five months ago.

As I write this last post before we head back to London, I am reminded of these buddhist words of wisdom, which I quoted when we were in Burma early January.

What life on earth is…

A falling star, a bubble in a stream.

A flame in the wind. Frost in the sun.

A flash of lightning in a summer cloud.

A phantom in a dream.

 

I hope you enjoyed travelling with us on this beautiful adventure. Please don’t hold it against me if I don’t post for a little while now. I am going to have to find my raison d’être again…

Beijos from Rio, with lots of Saudade

Saturday April 23rd, 2011



 
 

Where Nature is stronger than Man

As in Up (a favorite DVD night during our round the world), we followed Mr Fredricksen’s dream of seeing the largest waterfalls in South America and headed to Iguazu falls. Impressive..really. Nature is stronger than Man (i hope)

As the falls lie exactly at the border between Argentina and Brazil, you could choose to be based in either country, I don’t think it would make much of a difference. We chose the Brazilian side. However, for the visits, I do think it’s worth seeing the falls from both sides and spending at least 2 nights, maybe 3 to allow plenty of time.

The Argentine and Brazilian side differ quite a bit. You have a more panoramic view from the Brazilian side, but the trail there is rather short (about 1.5km) and can easily be done in half a day. On the Argentine side, you really need a full day. And then there are plenty of outdoor activities to take with the children if they are old enough for the adrenalin rush (rafting, boat trip to the falls, 4Wd in the jungle..)

Be prepared to be surrounded by tourists as there’s no way to avoid it unfortunately. The Brazilian side felt a bit calmer and the paths were all shaded by the trees.

To plan your stay, here are some BozAround tips…

- In the Argentina side, you travel for a while with a little train (not as fun as it sounds), and you have 3 main trails: the Devil’s throat (must-see), the Upper circuit (for good close ups from above) and the Lower circuit (for close ups from below). In the Inferior trail, you will get wet for sure, and beware that there are lots of stairs, making it rather tricky if you use a stroller. All together, it’s about 6km of trails on the Argentinian side.

- In the Brazilian side, you can take an excursion called Macuco Boat Safari, which I was dying to do, but Marcelo and Amalya would have been too scared (I don’t think I would do it with children less than 10 years old although there is no age limit). You take a boat trip all the way to the falls, super close up, and come back. It last 35min and the boat takes you and brings you back to the shore. Sounds fun.

- You can do a similar high-adrenalin boat trip on the Argentinian side but there, the boat takes you close to the falls and leaves you on a trail where there is then the long walk.

- There are additional ecological trails offered on either side going in the forest, they can be booked the same day. We did not have time to do those and I regretted. The thick jungle is beautiful, and there are tons of birds species.

- The helicopter ride above the falls is pricey, but quite worth it. You can only do it the Brazilian side as Argentina does not do it for ecological reasons (although the verdict is out there on the real impact). It’s US$100 per person, but young children won’t pay (Marcelo,5, and Amalya,2, sat on our laps and it was fine). You can’t book it in advance. Just show up at the helicopter pad before the entrance of the national park, between 9am and 5pm.

- We found a really nice taxi driver at the Argentine airport, and agreed on a deal for the next day to take us back and forth from Argentina and Brazil. Pablo Barreto Tel: 03757-15416047 / Cel: 054-3757-15540089 or pablinbarreto@hotmail.com.

Feeling like Mr Fredricksen from the helicopter ride…Up, Up, Up

Ps: Do not forget your passports when you go from Brazil to Argentina to visit the falls, and vice versa!



 
 

Stopping at Jose Ignacio, Uruguay for beach time.

I am experimenting posting from my iPad…sorry if it doesnt come out all nice and clean. I lost ONCE AGAIN something somewhere!! This time, it’s the plug of my computer, which is now out of battery. This is the most frustrating part of our round the world, we can’t help forgetting things in places, and usually in places that we loved. Hope its a sign that we’ll be back. One day I will make an inventory…
So while my plug stayed in Jose Ignacio, Uruguay, I can still tell you what we LOVED about the place. First, the lighthouse (photo above), which makes this  -originally fisherman’s – village so iconic. The light also, so clean and pure, the sky with stars, so big. And the people in Uruguay everywhere so gentle and kind. Such gentlemen and handsome too..! I’d say, a mix of the roughness of the gauchos with the classiness of the polo players. The waves, big and still warm. The quietness as we got there at the end of the season (apparently January is to be avoided, a Latin American version of St Tropez…). I would say it’s understated luxury at its best. And off season, the prices are not so bad, and all negotiable.
I was inspired to visit Uruguay by an article last year in Conde Nast Traveller titled Barefoot on the Beach, from journalist Peter Browne. Since I don’t know how to put hyperlinks on my iPad, I will let you google it.
With plenty of time, the way to “do” the uruguayan coast is from Carmelo, then Colonia del Sacramento, then Montevideo, then la Barra and Jose Ignacio, la Paloma, la Pedrera, and finish in unspoilt Cabo Polonio towards the Brazilian border.

We focused on Jose Ignacio because it’s a quaint little village on the beach extremely child friendly as everything is walking distance. We rented a beautiful and colourful house (on the photo above, the green house) through Marcelo (!) at Inmobiliaria Ruibal, who was so dedicated to helping us. Gracias Marcelo.
Really, it’s so hard posting with my iPad, I will do this post with photos mostly. Do ask me if you ever plan on visiting the region, it is so beautiful and tasteful at the same time. I could say so much more if only I had my computer…
We stopped at CasaPueblo, an iconic hotel before Punta del Este, designed by the Uruguayan artist Carlos Paez Vilaro. Below is his studio, overlooking the Atlantic. I wish it was my office too…There is a museum with a permanent retrospective of the artist’ works, and a small cafe on the terrace with a marvelous view. Maravillosa!
It’s also nice to take the children to the sculpture park foundation of Pablo Atchugarry, right on Ruta 104km 4,500, in Manatiales. And there’s a cute little zoo right nearby, with a tiger. Marcelo was reminded of his cuddling times with tigers in Thailand.
The region is strong on art, with a lot of very interesting artists from South America. There was an article in the NY Times magazine recently specifically about it, to be googled…
In the morning, we were getting our fish ultra fresh directly on the beach of Jose Ignacio (Playa Mansa) from the fishermen’s boat. I was proud of my ceviche…
And the region is strong on architect-houses, many out of the most beautiful magazines in the world. Wealthy argentines, mostly, who come here in the season or the week end to get some beach time. Playa Vik is an incredible example (like it or not) of Titanium and Glass. It’s a hotel which opened last year and designed by Uruguayan architect Carlos Ott. Artists from all over South America have been commissioned for each room. Quite surprising in this little village.
The beach house above was my favourite in the village, and also one of the oldest, designed by a well known Uruguayan architect whom I forgot the name..I know. Sorry..
This one below was very shabby-chic, looked like the first strong wind was going to blow it up, yet still standing proud on the beach. Sweet.
And long lunches of grilled fish at La Huella, children playing in the sand. A restaurant so delicious that people drive from all over the coast to come over the week end. Right there in Jose Ignacio. And Pisco Sour to die for, just before la siesta for everyone…
Plenty of activities for the family. Surfing on the beach of Playa Brava, waves were not that intimidating. Or horseback riding barefoot on the beach, with the horses of Jorge aka El Negrito who comes in front of La Huella with his 4 horses every afternoon.
We actually learnt to kite surf (sort of !!) at Laura Monino Kite surf / windsurf school. The best!! On Laguna Garzon, a beautiful eco-reserve, with shallow depth and constant wind, ideal conditions. Laura is so kind too, and owns a charming pousada near by, Halelau, that would be a great option with the family.
Hola chicos. Que tal. Que lindo..
BozAround tips:
- Rent a car with Interautos. They’ll come meet you straight at the arrival or departure terminal of Montevideo airport. And their prices are unbeatable. Speak with Gustavo (interautos@adinet.com.uy)
- Come here off-season to avoid the show-off factor. And bypass Punta del Este, a LatAm version of South Beach Miami. They say it’s coming back, but I am allergic to this kind of big developments on the beach.
- Make time to go up the coast all the way to Cabo Polonio. It sounds amazing. I am sad we could not go. No electricity, no cars, sand dunes only. And a few posadas.
- Pick up a map of Jose Ignacio at the tiny tourist information on the main square, It has everything you need.
- Posada del Faro has one of the best reputation in the village of Jose ignacio. And Casa Chic looked…quite chic and ideally located near the beach inside the village, with a small kitchen and separate bedroom for the family. Or Posada Halelau outside town for a more affordable option.
Ps: by the time i finished writing this article, i found my plug!!! youpi! so i put in some links..but i did not re-write everything..sorry if it’s a bit decousu…besos.


 
 

From Chilean Patagonia to Argentine Patagonia

It was fun for the children, the idea of crossing a border by road after so many airport immigration points during our round the world. However, it was a bit abstract for all us to understand where Chile ends and where Argentina starts!

This is what the Argentine border looks like 3,000km south of Buenos Aires

From Torres del Paine in Chile to El Calafate in Argentina, it’s an easy road of about 4hours. However, a  good 45 minutes is waisted at both immigration checkpoints. Bureaucracy looks so out of place in this immense Patagonian land.

You might have heard of the long rivalry between Chile and Argentina. Well, El Calafate is a bit the equivalent of Puerto Natales in Chile ie. the start point for many outdoor expeditions to the natural park of El Chalten, and also the world-famous glacier of Perito Moreno (1h30 away). I can’t really compare Patagonia on each side of the border because we stayed in the wilderness in Chile, while we stayed in the city of El Calafate in Argentina (the place went from 2,000 to 15,000 inhabitants in 7 years!), two different experiences. And we did not go trekking in Argentina, we only took a day trip to see the Perito Moreno glacier: it was freezing cold, and I did not enjoy the very touristy experience, by bus, with tons of other people squeezed in this immense land on the paths, in the cafeteria or in the bus. Oh well…s happens!

Ok, I am cheating a bit. These photos are from the Grey Glacier in Chile..I was too cold to take out my camera in Perito Moreno. same, same

At least, it was wonderfully warm and cozy to retreat to our little family apartment in town, at Los Ponchos, owned by an antique lover and filled with beautiful wooden pieces from Patagonia and elsewhere.

The view from our apartment on Lago Argentino, El Calafate

And we shared a parilla at Don Pichon with our new friends the Bideau family. With their 2 lovely girls Lea and Alice, they are going around the world for 12 months. Now, I am jealous!



 
 

El condor pasa

Remember this song..? My parents used to be big fans of Simon&Garfunkel!

Well, I started singing it in my head when I saw this, on top of my head

I’d rather be a sparrow than a snail

yes I would

if I could

I surely would

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