BozAround


The 'beach' tag

 

Stopping at Jose Ignacio, Uruguay for beach time.

I am experimenting posting from my iPad…sorry if it doesnt come out all nice and clean. I lost ONCE AGAIN something somewhere!! This time, it’s the plug of my computer, which is now out of battery. This is the most frustrating part of our round the world, we can’t help forgetting things in places, and usually in places that we loved. Hope its a sign that we’ll be back. One day I will make an inventory…
So while my plug stayed in Jose Ignacio, Uruguay, I can still tell you what we LOVED about the place. First, the lighthouse (photo above), which makes this  -originally fisherman’s – village so iconic. The light also, so clean and pure, the sky with stars, so big. And the people in Uruguay everywhere so gentle and kind. Such gentlemen and handsome too..! I’d say, a mix of the roughness of the gauchos with the classiness of the polo players. The waves, big and still warm. The quietness as we got there at the end of the season (apparently January is to be avoided, a Latin American version of St Tropez…). I would say it’s understated luxury at its best. And off season, the prices are not so bad, and all negotiable.
I was inspired to visit Uruguay by an article last year in Conde Nast Traveller titled Barefoot on the Beach, from journalist Peter Browne. Since I don’t know how to put hyperlinks on my iPad, I will let you google it.
With plenty of time, the way to “do” the uruguayan coast is from Carmelo, then Colonia del Sacramento, then Montevideo, then la Barra and Jose Ignacio, la Paloma, la Pedrera, and finish in unspoilt Cabo Polonio towards the Brazilian border.

We focused on Jose Ignacio because it’s a quaint little village on the beach extremely child friendly as everything is walking distance. We rented a beautiful and colourful house (on the photo above, the green house) through Marcelo (!) at Inmobiliaria Ruibal, who was so dedicated to helping us. Gracias Marcelo.
Really, it’s so hard posting with my iPad, I will do this post with photos mostly. Do ask me if you ever plan on visiting the region, it is so beautiful and tasteful at the same time. I could say so much more if only I had my computer…
We stopped at CasaPueblo, an iconic hotel before Punta del Este, designed by the Uruguayan artist Carlos Paez Vilaro. Below is his studio, overlooking the Atlantic. I wish it was my office too…There is a museum with a permanent retrospective of the artist’ works, and a small cafe on the terrace with a marvelous view. Maravillosa!
It’s also nice to take the children to the sculpture park foundation of Pablo Atchugarry, right on Ruta 104km 4,500, in Manatiales. And there’s a cute little zoo right nearby, with a tiger. Marcelo was reminded of his cuddling times with tigers in Thailand.
The region is strong on art, with a lot of very interesting artists from South America. There was an article in the NY Times magazine recently specifically about it, to be googled…
In the morning, we were getting our fish ultra fresh directly on the beach of Jose Ignacio (Playa Mansa) from the fishermen’s boat. I was proud of my ceviche…
And the region is strong on architect-houses, many out of the most beautiful magazines in the world. Wealthy argentines, mostly, who come here in the season or the week end to get some beach time. Playa Vik is an incredible example (like it or not) of Titanium and Glass. It’s a hotel which opened last year and designed by Uruguayan architect Carlos Ott. Artists from all over South America have been commissioned for each room. Quite surprising in this little village.
The beach house above was my favourite in the village, and also one of the oldest, designed by a well known Uruguayan architect whom I forgot the name..I know. Sorry..
This one below was very shabby-chic, looked like the first strong wind was going to blow it up, yet still standing proud on the beach. Sweet.
And long lunches of grilled fish at La Huella, children playing in the sand. A restaurant so delicious that people drive from all over the coast to come over the week end. Right there in Jose Ignacio. And Pisco Sour to die for, just before la siesta for everyone…
Plenty of activities for the family. Surfing on the beach of Playa Brava, waves were not that intimidating. Or horseback riding barefoot on the beach, with the horses of Jorge aka El Negrito who comes in front of La Huella with his 4 horses every afternoon.
We actually learnt to kite surf (sort of !!) at Laura Monino Kite surf / windsurf school. The best!! On Laguna Garzon, a beautiful eco-reserve, with shallow depth and constant wind, ideal conditions. Laura is so kind too, and owns a charming pousada near by, Halelau, that would be a great option with the family.
Hola chicos. Que tal. Que lindo..
BozAround tips:
- Rent a car with Interautos. They’ll come meet you straight at the arrival or departure terminal of Montevideo airport. And their prices are unbeatable. Speak with Gustavo (interautos@adinet.com.uy)
- Come here off-season to avoid the show-off factor. And bypass Punta del Este, a LatAm version of South Beach Miami. They say it’s coming back, but I am allergic to this kind of big developments on the beach.
- Make time to go up the coast all the way to Cabo Polonio. It sounds amazing. I am sad we could not go. No electricity, no cars, sand dunes only. And a few posadas.
- Pick up a map of Jose Ignacio at the tiny tourist information on the main square, It has everything you need.
- Posada del Faro has one of the best reputation in the village of Jose ignacio. And Casa Chic looked…quite chic and ideally located near the beach inside the village, with a small kitchen and separate bedroom for the family. Or Posada Halelau outside town for a more affordable option.
Ps: by the time i finished writing this article, i found my plug!!! youpi! so i put in some links..but i did not re-write everything..sorry if it’s a bit decousu…besos.


 
 

JM Cousteau Fiji eco-resort is the perfect family getaway

It’s rare to find a resort that combines all the dream factors at once. I am normally not the type to enjoy all-inclusive places because I don’t like pre-packaged vacations. But JM Cousteau Fiji eco-resort is quite different, truly a gem. We have been touched by the beauty of the place as much as the people. It’s low key yet quite pampering, it’s easy going yet very professional and best of all is the children’s club. We could not have wished for a better surprise. Thank you TripAdvisor!!

Here’s why:

- It’s only 25 individual bures (ie. wood and straw cottages) so it does feel very intimate even though you spend your whole time at the resort, eating, playing, drinking, swimming, scuba diving, snorkeling… They’re nothing crazy fancy, but just the right amount of comfort and island style decor.

- there’s a fantastic kids club, especially for families with young children. A nanny is attributed to each child under 5, and a buddy to each child over 5 every day from 8am until 9pm!! All included in the price, and up to 2 children per family sleep and eat free.

Kessa, Marcelo and Amalya all chic and ready for a Sunday morning outing to the local church

- The 220 staff (for only 25 bure!!) is all local, from the villages around, yet very professional and experienced as they have been working there for years, carefully trained by the management. There is a genuine conviviality that creates a wonderful atmosphere. You arrive,and are greeted by a sincere Welcome Home. Loved it.

- The scope of activities is huge, which was so different than our expectations of an island resort. We left after a week frustrated that we could not do everything. We did learn to scuba dive and are now PADI Open Water certified, an achievement we’re quite proud of!! Especially to have learnt at one of French marine explorer Mr Cousteau’s center. You can go kayaking, snorkeling with the marine biologist on residence, trekking to waterfalls or to the surrounding villages..Every day there is a program for adults with lots of good activities.

Colourful bus for the afternoon excursions, and Marcelo snorkeling with his buddy Davis

- The program in the children’s club is equally attractive. Kayaking in the glass bottom kayak or going in the boat, Marcelo learnt to snorkel thanks to Davis, his super nice buddy. Painting tee shirts with a big BULA (pronounced Boolah = hello!) on it, collecting sea shells, playing in one of the 3 swimming pools specially for children, learning to play chess with the giant chess board, and many more.. At every dinner, 3 or 4 guitarists come by and sing for the children some local music. It’s all very caring and natural.

- The food was really good and varied even though it’s just one restaurant in the resort. The massages were perfect, and there’s even a free internet connection throughout, and no tv’s or phones, which I thought was the right order of priority.

It’s far, very far to come here, especially if you live in Europe. But it’s soooo worth it if you’re looking to be away from it all.

 



 
 

Up on the Australian East coast, Byron Bay to Fraser island

(I am backtracking a bit, to finish telling you about Australia). After we cancelled our plans in NZ due to the earthquake, we were left a bit puzzled and unsure of where to go. Looking back, we are so pleased we got a chance to explore Australia further as it was not initially ranking high on our list of dream-destinations. We retrieved to Sydney for a few days (which now feels like home!), and from there took a low cost flight to Byron Bay (Ballina airport) and chased the sun. We literally checked the weather every day.

First stop: The Shed with a View outside the small town of Bangalow, a 15 min drive inland from the beautiful beaches of Byron Bay.

Yes, this was the view from our shed when we woke up. (6am, always punctual, thank you Amalya…Ok, sometimes it’s 5:45am…)

This is the hippie / sydneysider creative families gone rural / small farm land where all things eco and organic matter. Loved it! When you drive inland from the coast, they call it the hinterland, a term I’ve got to use and abuse as I just love the way it sounds. The Hinterlands. The Shed with a View does exactly what it promises, ie. a small and simple little house but nicely appointed, with the most beautiful view over the never ending green valleys (book it through The Earth House, same owners).

Hens, goose, cows, Chocolate the labrador and countless insects visited us while we were there. Life was simple and easy, complete with outdoor shower with sometimes cold water, and eco-toilets ie. compostable non-flush (have you ever tried? A real experience in itself!) A small corner of paradise in the countryside, yet very near the beautiful beach of Byron Bay (our favorite: clark beach, near the ice cream shop). The owners Jackie and Alistair are a very kind and down to earth couple who used to own a huge farm in the center of Australia (loved their family tales of schooling with morse code, and getting mail once a week with the groceries!).

Activities in the day included walking in the national parks in the area, visiting surrounding macadamia and pecan nuts farms, seeing a beautiful waterfall and spending the sunset at the beach.

Second stop: The Glass House mountains, just past the border into the state of Queensland (yes, the one that has got all the terrible natural disasters these past few months, cyclones, floodings etc.. it’s all over now). Stayed at a really low key and super friendly lodge named appropriately the Glass House Eco-Lodge.  The area has beautiful landscape and is rich in aboriginal culture. And from there we were just 10 min away from the big Australia Zoo of late Steve Irwin aka The Crocodile HunterI got a bit fed up of feeding animals and visiting sanctuaries by then but it’s always a trade-off when you travel, isn’t it?

They offer poney riding at the Australia zoo…And the children can cuddle with the kangaroos too.

Third Stop: Noosa Heads one hour north, famed for its beach and its natural park. Did not see much as the weather was lousy (no really, thank you Mr Weather Channel..) but the washing machines at Maison Noosa were super efficient and did not require coins, a big plus when you’re traveling for five months.

the wonders of Apple…an iPad on my left, a Macbook on my right…

Last Stop: Fraser Island, the largest sand island in the world (2h30 drive north), and a World-Heritage protected place with an amazing eco-system. We did 2 days there, sleeping at Kingfisher Bay resort, which was perfectly comfortable and pleasant. But I regretted not having enough time to research for a good camping site.

You can’t bring your campervan or your car to Fraser Island and it’s only accessible to 4 WD (above, the 4 WD bus from our day tour with Kingfisher bay resort), but there are many campsites for a base, as long as you are part of a group or well organized, which we were not. The highlights of our stay on famous Fraser island: taking a short flight over the island and landing on the beach, seeing the shipwreck, swimming in lake McKenzie, swimming in the cold streams and trekking through the dense forest. Breathe in…Breathe out…

From then, it was back to Brisbane airport, for our non stop flight  to Nadi International airport aka the paradise of FIJI. We’re in heaven. Will send pictures soon ’cause the words won’t do it justice.

SO LONG AUSTRALIA.

 



 
 

Some Sydney tips for a week with a family

Sydney is a great place to stop and rest after our intense travelling in South East Asia. It’s a very welcoming city to the family, big enough to offer plenty to do yet relaxed and stylish, and very child-friendly. There are not that many big cities in the world that offer great beach living with cool city lifestyle. I can think of Rio, or Tel Aviv but Sydney really is in another league..Oh if it wasn’t soooo far from everything, we could easily see ourselves raising our children here.

The famous Sydney Opera House above, and the famous Bondi beach below.

The beaches of Bondi-Tamarama-Bronte-Coogee are a great base with a family, and only 15-20 min drive to downtown. We ended up in Coogee, renting the Annex which is a nice family apartment managed by the Dive Hotel. Coogee is not as cool and lively as Bondi, but it’s super child friendly with a great playground overlooking the ocean, a ladies & children pool in the sea, and a great long beach. Breakfast facing the waves from the terrass of Barzura is a must. Another wonderful brunch place is Swell on Bronte beach. With courage, there is a 3 hour cliff walk from Coogee to Bondi along the coast. We did the abbreviated version from Bronte to Bondi, 30min with a stroller and many steps. It’s highly recommended.

After the walk to Bondi beach, it’s a good idea to stop for ice creams with a view at the swim club Icebergs, or get a babysitter in order to enjoy a diner tete-a-tete in the very hip top floor restaurant. Or family dinner at North Bondi Italian, a casual and delicious noisy place facing the surfers. Or just a glass of Australian wine at The Shop a few blocks behind the beach in Bondi. This b&b in North Bondi seems like a good address to bookmark but it was full for us, or this hotel for a more established place. Or these websites also had lots of apartments to rent that seemed well located (but we planned way too late..): Rent-a-Home and Stay-z.

If the weather is warm and sunny (which it is most of the time between December and March!), it’s nice to split the day between morning visits and afternoon at the beach, with a lunch break in one of the many cool spots in town. They know a thing or two about fooding in Sydney.

Children will love taking a ferry from Circular Quay to Darling Harbor, and getting off to visit the Wildlife World and the exciting aquarium (best to buy the combo tickets). Lunch break at Chinta Ria for Malaysian family food is a good option afterwards, right in Cockle Bay.

Another half day can be spent starting at the incredible Sydney Opera House (we got to listen to a concert of classic music Passion with Brahms last night, a nice prelude to Valentine’s day!!), then walking through the Royal Botanical Gardens to finish at the Art Gallery NSW where there’s a good cafe with kids pack. Or the Museum of Contemporary Art right near Circular Quay. March will see Art Month in Sydney, a month-long festival of arts in the city, with family programs as well. Too bad we’ll be gone by then.

For more art, head to Danks Street in Waterloo where you will find Danks Street Depot at number 2, the David Bramley gallery and Sonoma bakery for lunch break. And for a pleasant leisure stroll, walk the streets of charming Paddington area, stopping for Italian ice cream at Alimentari on William Street.

You see those charming houses with wrought iron balconies all over in Sydney. Love them. And a reminder that this country is a rich land of iron and many other commodities. Hence 1US$=1AU$ right now…a very expensive city for the visiting tourist.

And another afternoon can be spent in the arty / trendy area of Surry Hills, where one of Sydney’s coolest kids store Kido has a new shop on Crown Street, not far from Mrs Red & Sons another shop worth a visit. We had amazing sushi at Toko for early dinner with the children (everyone eats really early in Sydney!). Or the Italian Pizza e Birra next door seemed like a deliciously stylish alternative.

I could go on and on with good spots for meals in Sydney, because we ate really well in many design-driven places. The Foodie 100 article from Travel Leisure has lots of good addresses, and I am carrying a print for every country we go to.

We have not had a chance yet to walk the Harbour Bridge, maybe on our return from the Blue Moutains. I hear there are some great climbs organized on the bridge (top ten world’s heart pounding experiences), but am I still allowed this kind of adrenaline-filled activities now that I am a mother?



 
 

Featuring Nui Organics on New Zealand

Spring is around the corner. In New Zealand, that is! If you’re gloomy about the grey weather in the Northern Hemisphere, read this. New Zealand is not an easy destination to reach, but certainly one worth making time for in a lifetime.

Amanda Searancke, founder of nui organics shares her Best Of. She lives in Austin (TX) with her two-year old son Tama and her French husband but goes back regularly to her home country where nui collections are made, 100% New Zealand organics merino wool. The finest and the purest. (Tested and certified by my little Amalya last winter)

Tell us about the philosophy of nui and how NZ inspires you:

NZ has such a wild and diverse natural beauty, which is really the star of the country.  It produces the best organic merino wool in the world, with beautiful natural colors and a perfect texture. It is an intelligent fibre with natural attributes, perfect for babies and children.  I try and keep my designs calm and let the natural material be the star.

- What are your favorite places for a family vacation:

I love the diversity in New Zealand: beaches and mountains, lakes, rivers, deserts, forest and farmland.  As a child, nothing was ever too far away. You can throw snowballs on Mt Ruapehu in the morning and by dinner be at the ocean.

New Zealand is a young country, without too many rules. There is this freedom to create using the bounty of natural resources with the best methods from people who have come to live from all over. You will find this in food, architecture, fashion, technology. Innovation is second nature, originally from geographic isolation and now its just the way.

The oceans around New Zealand are raw and fresh with amazing colours. I would suggest flying into Auckland, which has a lot going on for kids.  There is Waiwera Thermal Hot Pools, Kelly Tarltons Aquarium, horse riding, beaches, amusement parks, ferry rides and so on.  For budding astronomers, there is Stardome Planetarium and budding lunatics can always jump off or climb over the Auckland Harbour Bridge.

Spend the day on Waiheke Island – a short ferry ride from downtown Auckland, covered in wineries for mum and dad. Auckland also has some spectacular restaurantsand good coffee almost everywhere you go.

A great way to travel around is a Camper Van. Not for everyone, but they give you great freedom and versatility. They are comfortable, modern and well equipped. You can get them different sizes to fit your family. Popular ones are Kea and Maui. In the beach areas, there are campgrounds galore where you can plug in and take a shower. Plus your kids will meet other kids in a safe environment. They will play. You will relax. Next day you are off somewhere else. Waihi Beach is a great campround.

Summer in NZ is Dec-Feb.  It’s the long school holidays and if a mobile camper is not for you, be sure to book accommodation ahead.

This summer we spent time on the Coromandel Peninsula – about 1h30 from Auckland. You could book a house (or book a Bach as NZ holiday homes are called) and do day trips to other parts of the Coromandel or go for a B&B or hotel.  You can pretty much get anywhere on the Coromandel in a day.  There are vintage railways, scenic boat trips and my favourite – beaches.  A visit to Hot Water Beach is a must with its fantastic low tides that turn into personal hot tubs.

Also, take a hike inland.  NZ has no snakes, no poisonous spiders and the bush (as NZ forest is known) is full of magnificent native trees and lots of ferns.  The rivers are clean and cool for swimming.  The Karangahake Gorge is goodto hike with kids. It’s easy to catch your own fresh fish.  Just ask at any bait or tackle store where to go and what you need.

- And for a little shopping:

Manuka Honey is delicious. Wooden things from reclaimed native timber, like Kauri and Rimu. are great to bring back, with rich warm colors and amazing texture.  You will find galleries  all over the country. If you are in Auckland, visit Kura Gallery.

Nui Organics is available online at nuiorganics.com.  In the US: New York – Crembebe, Acorn and Yoya.  Boston – Hatched. Los Angeles – Wonderland.  San Francisco – Natural Resources and Sprout SF.  Seattle – Clover In Canada: Toronto – Advice from a Caterpiller Calgary – Rivas The Eco Store.  In the UK: Elias & Grace.

Ps: nui has a sister collection, all things lambskin: kina collection. It’s luxurious and beautiful.



 
 

Gone to the beach

We’re in Turkey right now with the family, checking out places in Cesme, then onto the Greek island of Patmos for a few days. I will report when I am back from the beach…! Happy summer to you all x

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