BozAround


The 'children' tag

 

A (family) night in the desert

I’d like to tell you a bit about our recent trip to Oman, officially called the Sultanate of Oman. While we went there primarily to seek some sun and rest in the middle of the long English winter (read: we started with 5 nights in a family-geared sea-side resort called Zighy Bay, stunning location but must improve the family-geared aspect hence I wont speak so much about it here), we managed to have a bit of exciting family adventure in the desert, the highlight of our vacation.

It was the first time I (and we) were visiting the Arabian Peninsula (apart from a business trip to Dubai which had made me ‘allergic’ to those bling bling newly built cities….Btw, Oman/ Muscat is very different, much more authentic). When doing the maths (8hours flight time + flight cost + year end premium + 4hours time difference), Oman came up as a winner vs. all the other sunny destinations we could have gotten to from London at this time of the year. Indeed it was an easy trip, starting with my first flight aboard an A380 (amazing!!! so spacious! so silent!!).

The highlight was our New Year’s eve night in the Wahiba Sands, a part of the desert located 3 hours drive from the capital Muscat. All of us enjoyed it.

   

From the million-stars sky to the bedouin tent and no-electricity camp, to the camel ride on the dunes, and the sand-board ride with the children…

(photo above) This was our camp, Safari Desert Camp, reached after 30min driving off-piste in the desert, 25km from the closest town (some people drive themselves but I strongly recommend hiring a driver if you’re not used to driving on sand dunes!). A true Bedouin-style camp, owned by a Bedouin family. No swimming pool, no electricity. The real deal, but with style and (some) comfort:-)

This (photo above) was our tent, number 1. If you ever stay there, make sure to request a tent and not a hut as it’s infinitely more charming and authentic. they have about 10 tents in the camp, and maybe 5 or 6 huts made of concrete, probably more comfortable but so much less charming.

The tent was perfectly suited to a family of 4, with beautiful real beds, floors covered with colourful carpets, and tiny openings in the tent to see the stars and the moonlight.

   

At night, we were treated to a wonderful evening of traditional music and dance to celebrate the new year. Amalya stood up fearless, dancing under the torchlight with all the bedouin women dressed in their colourful outfits, while Marcelo fell slowly asleep on the pillows, to the beat of the drums.

…And then, we all headed to sleep at 9pm under the stars, wishing this would be the prelude to a beautiful new year.

May all your dreams come true.

Happy New Year x



 
 

Hamam, Istanbul and a little girl

In the serie let’s go visit a city with my daughter, I’d like to suggest Istanbul. You might already know that I am a huge fan of this city (read beautiful Istanbul and several other posts part of a BozAround city guide). I was just there again recently and experienced something very special. I spent 2 hours at the newly renovated Hamam Ayasofya. It was indulgence at its best.

Not only was it very therapeutic (it always is. Body scrubbing, foam all over, hot and cold, steam and dry. An old lady holding your hand to lead you from room to room like a baby) but for me it was also quite nostalgic. It transported me back in time when I was about 7 or 8 years old and my ants in Algeria took me to a hamam for the first time. What a shock. What a revelation. All these undressed women, young and old, boobs falling til their bellies, getting a weekly scrubbing and chatting and gossiping. It was one of those life moment that you remember for ever.

   

So when I went to Ayasofya Hamami a couple weeks ago in Istanbul, I couldn’t help wishing that my daughter Amalya would be older (7/8 would be the minimum to enjoy, I think) so I could share the experience with her. Ladies Only. We’ll surely do it in due time.

   

If you’re in Istanbul with your daughter / niece / a younger step-sister, do take her for a hamam experience! Ayasofya Hamam has just been entirely renovated. It used to be the hamam of the sultans, then fell into abandonment and was used as a tyre warehouse, but with the economic boom in Turkey, it’s now back to its grand days. It’s a nice break from visiting all the monuments around .

BozAround tips:

- Go first thing in the morning when the hamam opens to avoid the crowds. I was literally alone in the entire hamam (hence I could take those photos), making it so much more special. Better to book in advance too.

- Not to be entirely sexist, there’s a men quarter around the corner at Ayasofya Hamam. Or in general, hamams function on alternate days for men and women.

- You’ll find many hamams in Istanbul, old and new. Stick to the original ones, which are typically located in the old hood of Sultanahmet (nearby all the beautiful monuments that you will no doubt want to visit: the Blue Mosque, the Bazar, Ayasofya mosque, Topkapi palace, the byzantine cistern..). This is another one, tried and tested, beautiful two albeit not as grand as Ayasofya Hamam.

   

When you’re finished, skin soft and smelling like a princess, head for a pomegranate juice on the main square and enjoy the purity of the moment. smile.

 

 



 
 

Featuring CrewCuts on the Yucatan Peninsula, Mexico

I was so excited when Laura Shippey, design director for girls at Crewcuts, suggested to report on her family getaway to the Yucatan for BozAround. Not only have I not covered this part of the world, but I am also a HUGE fan of Crewcuts, a brand you would only know if you have spent time in the USA. That’s about to change..yeahh! So in case you are not familiar with it: Crewcuts is the kids line of American superstar brand J.Crew, an excellent mix of quality, long-lasting styles with a good dose of hipness and great pricing. Something very rare for a large established brand. And they do it season after season, with many exciting brand collaborations too (remember this old post about mini Steve McQueen?).


Tell us about your family:

We are an English family living in Brooklyn, New York since 2007 when I scooped a job with J. Crew designing their Crewcuts line. My name is Laura, my husband, Simon is a musician and our son Noah is 8 and is a Lego enthusiast, bookworm and aspiring rock star! As for Crewcuts, it is probably best described as classics with a modern and playful twist. The focus is on quality and colour with a simple sophistication that aims to appeal to the kids as well as their parents!

What is special about The Yucatan Peninsula:

It holds an incredible mixture of both ecological and archeological richness. The Caribbean coast has pristine white sand beaches and a wonderfully laid back atmosphere. For us, it was the perfect combination of relaxation and a sense of discovery and adventure. It’s less than 2 hours south of Cancun, a not-so-exciting place but a large airport with many international connections.

Your suggested itinerary:

We spent 5 days at the beach area of Tulum, where the Caribbean sea is usually very calm and safe for kids to play in. We were all very happy just to chill on the beach, play in the sea and generally unwind for the first couple of days.

And at the end of a beach day…

From Tulum we took a day trip to the beautiful Sian Ka’an Biosphere, a nature reserve that covers over 1.3 million acres.

We arranged our tour with Mexico Kan Tours, and our guide Miguel was excellent; incredibly knowledgeable  about the wildlife in the biosphere as well as the anthropological history. The trip included a wonderful float down a shallow, crystal clear channel through the grassy coastal wetlands on a life vest, so peaceful!

And on the 3rd day we hired bikes and cycled to a small cenote along the Tulum road. Cenotes are naturally formed sinkholes in the pourous limestone shelf that makes up the Yucatan Peninsula. We splashed about and snorkled admiring the beautiful fish resting there.

From Tulum we hired a car and headed off to Merida, the largest city in the region with beautiful colonial architecture where the houses are painted fresh colours every 3 months. We stopped by the famous Mayan ruins of Chichen Itza on our way. While undoubtedly awe – inspiring, this site is slightly marred by the huge amount of day-trippers from Cancun, and the resulting fact that you can no longer climb any of the structures.

If you hanker after a more Indiana Jones type experience, then you would be advised to visit a lesser known site in the area, such as Coba, Muyil, or Ek Balam.

This is Muyil:

The following day we drove through many beautiful villages with fruit stalls selling fresh mangos, coconuts and papaya towards the gulf coast and town of Celestun in the hope of seeing Flamingos. After a morning splashing on the beach we took a fascinating boat trip through the mangroves and lagoons, seeing spectacular herons, king fishers and huge termite nests but sadly no flamingos!

On our final day we went to the most incredible Mayan ruins called Ek Balam near the town of Valladolid. These ruins are fairly recently discovered and amazingly well preserved. There are some incredible life size carvings of warriors with huge wings on their backs. Noah loved climbing the very steep steps to the top of the palace complex from which we got a fantastic view over the surrounding jungle.

EAT:

We had many wonderful meals in Tulum!

Tierras Del Sol is an Argentinian restaurant with no menu but 7 small appetizers brought one after the other and your choice of grilled meat for the main course. We went twice because we loved it so much, one evening choosing the fish and the other the steak. I will never forget the accompanying potatoes with caramelised garlic!

As featured on The Selby, Hartwood was set up recently by Brooklyn chefs Eric Verner and Mya Henry. The food is organic and comes from the farmers market in Valladolid. Noah particularly enjoyed the coconut cake. There’s a feast of photos on the Selby website.

For a more casual meal we ate often at Las Ranitas which is also a family friendly hotel.

For ice cream Posada Margherita further up the beach is pretty special.

 

SLEEP

We loved our cabana at  La Via Latkea, which literally means the Milky Way in Spanish. It was at the quiet end of the beach, had comfortable beds and a clean bathroom with hammocks outside to read our books and take our siestas in!

SHOP

Merida is famed for its hats and hammocks and there are many shops selling all kinds of traditional artifacts. Noah was very happy to find a shark tooth necklace at the beach in Celestun.

A few words of advise:

My first recommendation is to take advantage of the incredibly knowledgable guides at both the nature reserves and the archeological sites. Their expertise makes the experience of exploring so much richer. Secondly don’t drink the water and avoid ice in your drinks.

Crewcuts is available online with shipping currently within the U.S, Canada and Japan and to the UK starting this Autumn. See the website for store locations across the U.S.

New York Flagship stores:

Tribeca: 50 Hudson NY10013 - Madison: 1190 Madison Avenue NY10128 - Soho: 99 Prince street NY10012 - 5th Avenue: 91 5TH Ave NY10003



 
 

After thoughts from visiting the Recoleta cemetery

I was debating for a little while whether to keep these words below for myself, but in the end, I find them so touching and expressive of what a 5-year old might think of after-life that I decided to share them with you.

We visited the famous and worthwhile seeing Recoleta cemetery in Buenos Aires. It was Marcelo’s first time ever visit to a cemetery and as you might be aware with your own children, 5-year old is the age of quite a few metaphysic questions. As we are a bit of a hybrid family when it comes to religion, I had never really talked about death & after-life with Marcelo…This visit brought a lot of questions and an open discussion, which I think was a healthy way to talk about a rather difficult subject.

 

This is what Marcelo told me that night, before going to sleep:

Maman, you know what…

When there will only be your bones,

I will re-build you, and I will hold your hand,

And I will cuddle with you.

I will never bury you.

I will put you in my bedroom in your box, and I will sleep next to you.

 

Wishing you a Happy Easter or Happy Passover in case you celebrate them this week end.



 
 

The Best of Buenos Aires with Los Niños

We came back to Buenos Aires after Mendoza, and all together have spent more than a week in the city. While I would not call BA a very family-friendly city, because it’s noisy and polluted, huge with lots of traffic, there are pleasant activities and itineraries to take with the children. What I found most fascinating in BA is the mix of old and new. A very unique city with lots of different parts of town to explore by foot.

On our 2nd stay, we rented one of the loft-apartment of Home Hotel. It’s an excellent place to stay with the family. You get the best of both worlds: an apartment with a kitchen and a small courtyard, very private, quiet and spacious, and you get all the great services of the hotel, swimming pool and staff help. It’s located in Palermo Hollywood, my favorite part of town in BA with San Telmos.
Here is Home Hotel’ Best of Buenos Aires with Kids, all tried and tested (almost!).
Buenos Aires Zoo, opened in 1988, with a surprisingly great diversity of animals. As per Marcelo: Better than Regent’s Park Zoo in London! People who live nearby complain they hear the lions roaring all the time. i think it’s a good sign. Right in the center of the city, in Palermo, Av. Sarmiento y Las Heras. Closed Mondays.
And right outside, you will see horse carriages…Marcelo and Amalya loved taking a stroll the old fashion way.
Interactive Science Museum (Forbidden NOT to touch). This is a super interactive science museum and Marcelo absolutely loved the place… while I got super stressed about not figuring out most of the experiments!!! It reminded me how bad I was at school with physics.
The museum is right in Recoleta by the famous Cemetery (a great place to visit too). It makes for a pleasant half day trip, to be followed by a mouth-watering and inexpensive lunch of empanadas at El Sanjuanino.
Botanical Gardens: designed by French landscape architect Carlos Thays in 1998. It’s in Palermo and there is also a lovely playground right beside it.
Parque Tres de Febrero: it’s Buenos Aires version of Hyde Park, or Central Park. In the middle lies a large pond with ducks, geese where boats can be rented, there are also bicycle rentals with a paved cycle around the lake. Rosedal, Parque 3 de Febrero in Palermo, very near the Botanical gardens.
Planetarium: There are telescope observing sessions several times a week, as well as sun sessions.
Museo Argentino del Titere (Puppet Museum): shows are held regularly.Puppets of all kinds, wooden, made of foam and rubber, articulated, made of papier mache, tango singers…It’s in the area of San Telmo (Piedras 905. Tel: 4307-6917 / 4304-4376)

In addition to the above children-centric places, these are some of BozAround favorites, equally easy on the children.

- A Sunday stroll in San Telmo…

Every Sunday, there’s the flea market of San Telmo. It’s not over crowded but beware of pickpockets. Enjoy a cheap and yummy lunch of empanadas (sooooo good) or pizza & pasta at Pedro Telmo (Bolivar, 962. Tel: 43 62 36 94), and stroll around with a few pesos in the pocket, to give away to the many street performers.

Marcelo found some super heroes comics at the market…

- A morning spent at La Boca…

La Boca is the notoriously dodgy yet most touristy part of the city, because of the very photogenic colourful streets (do NOT got there after dark!!). We went quite early in the morning and as such avoided the tourist buses. Loved it!! The atmosphere is very old-school, yet one of the most exciting art foundation in the city is there, PROA, with a Louise Bourgeois exhibition going on right now (and her famous spider which any child will be amazed at).

Marcelo and Ceki also visited the football stadium of Boca Junior, and we all met for a delicious Italian lunch at Il Matterello (MArtin Rodriguez, 517), an institution in the city.

In La Boca, I stumbled upon this store, owned by a very elegant Spanish-immigrant woman of 86 years old.

Beautiful vintage dresses and many other nostalgic objects. I don’t have the address but if you walk around, you might recognize it. She has had her shop for 25 years. She was so sweet, with such a gentle smile. I barely had any change on me, otherwise I could have bought so much. I left with a vintage silk dress, off-white, which I told myself Amalya might want one day (for her wedding?!)

- An afternoon in Palermo…

…Visiting the MALBA museum and its impressive collection of LAtin American contemporary art in a stunning modern construction. Nearby by is Persicco, for one of the best ice cream in town (remember, most of Argentines are of Italian-descent)..And not far is Plaza Alemana with a good playground. A great place to mingle with local children in their school uniforms at the end of the day.

You’ll find lots of guides about Buenos Aires so I won’t say much more about where to eat & shop…Just one address that I fell in love with: DIVIA. If you’re going to bring back one thing for yourself from Argentina, it’s shoes. And these ones are so beautiful and so unique.

 



 
 

Wanderlust, and Mr Seguin’s Goat

(Some random thoughts tonight from Melbourne, Australia…)

It’s nice to have English as a second language, because I still get to learn new words, even though I have been living in the anglo-saxon world for almost 15 years. Thanks to the comment of a BozAround reader recently (thank you Sarah!!), I’ve now fallen in love with this word:

WANDERLUST

A very strong or irresistible impulse to travel.

An ache for distance.

A crave for travel.

“her wanderlust would not allow her to stay long in one place”

As I searched for the definition online, it reminded me of La Chevre de Monsieur Seguin

If you have some French cultural background, you might know the story from Alphonse Daudet (1954). Although I can’t think of a proper French translation for wanderlust, I would definitely say that Mr Seguin’s goat had wanderlust. She would long all day for the greener grass on the other side of the mountain… As a child, It was one of my favorite stories and so much so that my parents used to call me Mr Seguin’s Goat.

Her end is rather dramatic as she gets eaten by the mountain wolf, but it’s nevertheless a fantastic story for children (perhaps not at bedtime though!). If you’re going to buy it, please get the audio version as told by Fernandel, with his warm accent from South of France. Here is the Audio version (en francais).

C’est qu’elle n’avait peur de rien, la blanquette….



 
 

R We There Yet?!

We pretty much followed all the excellent recommendations of Munster Kids in Vietnam – read the interview here – but once in a while, Marcelo inevitably complained that there were not enough fun things to do for him.

His tee shirt R We There Yet from Munster Kid came so handy! I think it’s a great buy for any family trip.

Merci Sam & Rich for a great evening in HCMC!



 
 

$1 donation for every 10 visits on BozAround this February

For every 10 visits we’ll have on BozAround during the month of February 2011, we are going to match it with a US$1.00 donation to a charity related to children in Burma. Spread the word!

As we are soon finishing the 40 days in South East Asia in our round the world (a few more days in Vietnam and onto Hong Kong for Chinese New Year), we realize that Burma is the country that touched our hearts the most, and its children are some of the neediest in the world. Its charities also get the least help from abroad because it’s still so hard to deal with the country. Our friends at Ancient Geographics will help us choose the most dedicated charity working towards improving the lives of Burmese children.

You can email this post, tweet it, facebook it, like it, whatever it is…but tell your friends so that traffic on the blog can translate into something productive this month…Thank you!



 
 

Vietnam. Same Same?

I first came to Vietnam 12 years ago. At that time I was backpacking with a girlfriend. Vietnamese people joke around with the expression same same, which they use a lot to express the fact that things are pretty much the same no matter how you look at them: a restaurant here is same same as the other one across the street. You want to give them $3 for a tee shirt and they’ll answer: “give me $5 for it, same same“…. Well, Vietnam is not same same if you ask me.

It’s not same same with the other countries that we visited in SE Asia this past month. People are so much rougher here than they were in Burma, Thailand or Cambodia, the same roughness that you often feel when dealing with Chinese people (sorry for making a generalization). Smiles are clearly not as abundant either, and business comes first. Prices are steep in Vietnam, and it’s not so easy to find pleasant, charming hotels for a good deal, such as the wonderful guesthouse we had in Chiang Mai, or the FCC in Siem Reap.

It’s not same same as when I came 13 years ago either. The country has gone through an economic boom, there’s construction everywhere and places don’t look the same anymore. It was particularly shocking in the Mekong Delta, where we took an overnight boat trip to celebrate Marcelo’s 5th birthday. From Ho CHi Minh City (ex-Saigon) to the delta, a 3-hour drive, it was building and houses non-stop. And now in Hoi An, the center of this world-heritage Unesco town is full of tourist shops and cafes. Pitty, I want to say…but I don’t see the poverty that I remembered either. So if I am not such a happy tourist anymore, Vietnamese are most likely happier.

And it’s not same same to come here with 2 young children. Back then, I was free-spirited, traveling light and with just a few savings in my pocket. This time around, we have Marcelo 5 years old, and Amalya 22 months stealing the show. We don’t interact with people in the same way. I used to stay in dirt cheap places, travel by bus and eat a lot of street food. Now it’s more about finding comfortable and clean places for the family. Naturally, we’re not able to be as much in touch with the local people. I can’t complain though, it’s just a different experience all together.



 
 

Cambodia Knits

Half way between Anne-Claire Petit and Ugly Doll, there’s Cambodia Knits.

Founded in 2005 by Monika Nowaczyk who was at that time working for the NGO CARECambodia, Cambodia Knits is quite an exemplary social enterprise which trains and employs over 25 Cambodian women. I have been reading quite a bit about her success story in the local press, and even though I did not get a chance to speak with her or see her little dolls, I felt compelled to share it on BozAround.

It’s an ethical alternative to all the stuffed creatures that can be found in the children’s market these days. You can also sponsor a knitter by emailing info@cambodiaknits.com . If you’re looking for a knitted little monster, you might as well get one that does good to the world. You can buy Cambodia Knits online on Eyaas.com

I think that’s it for Cambodia…onto Vietnam now. It’s just an hour flight from Phnom Penh to Ho Chi Minh City, or an 8 hours boat ride along the Mekong river, which a lot of people choose to do.

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