BozAround


The 'city' tag

 

Hamam, Istanbul and a little girl

16 Sep
2011

In the serie let’s go visit a city with my daughter, I’d like to suggest Istanbul. You might already know that I am a huge fan of this city (read beautiful Istanbul and several other posts part of a BozAround city guide). I was just there again recently and experienced something very special. I spent 2 hours at the newly renovated Hamam Ayasofya. It was indulgence at its best.

Not only was it very therapeutic (it always is. Body scrubbing, foam all over, hot and cold, steam and dry. An old lady holding your hand to lead you from room to room like a baby) but for me it was also quite nostalgic. It transported me back in time when I was about 7 or 8 years old and my ants in Algeria took me to a hamam for the first time. What a shock. What a revelation. All these undressed women, young and old, boobs falling til their bellies, getting a weekly scrubbing and chatting and gossiping. It was one of those life moment that you remember for ever.

   

So when I went to Ayasofya Hamami a couple weeks ago in Istanbul, I couldn’t help wishing that my daughter Amalya would be older (7/8 would be the minimum to enjoy, I think) so I could share the experience with her. Ladies Only. We’ll surely do it in due time.

   

If you’re in Istanbul with your daughter / niece / a younger step-sister, do take her for a hamam experience! Ayasofya Hamam has just been entirely renovated. It used to be the hamam of the sultans, then fell into abandonment and was used as a tyre warehouse, but with the economic boom in Turkey, it’s now back to its grand days. It’s a nice break from visiting all the monuments around .

BozAround tips:

- Go first thing in the morning when the hamam opens to avoid the crowds. I was literally alone in the entire hamam (hence I could take those photos), making it so much more special. Better to book in advance too.

- Not to be entirely sexist, there’s a men quarter around the corner at Ayasofya Hamam. Or in general, hamams function on alternate days for men and women.

- You’ll find many hamams in Istanbul, old and new. Stick to the original ones, which are typically located in the old hood of Sultanahmet (nearby all the beautiful monuments that you will no doubt want to visit: the Blue Mosque, the Bazar, Ayasofya mosque, Topkapi palace, the byzantine cistern..). This is another one, tried and tested, beautiful two albeit not as grand as Ayasofya Hamam.

   

When you’re finished, skin soft and smelling like a princess, head for a pomegranate juice on the main square and enjoy the purity of the moment. smile.

 

 



Category: City & Culture, Europe, Just the 2 of us
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September 16th, 2011 | 1:18pm by BozAround
 
 

Any wall space left anywhere?

20 Jun
2011

It’s map time again on BozAround…

Julie Mercier, a french illustrator whom I talked about last year for her maps of the world, now has one specifically about New York. Very busy, very colourful, very entertaining.

You can buy it on the website of L’Affiche Moderne, a fantastic online gallery presenting the works of young photographers, graphic designers and children’s illustrators from all over the place.



Category: City & Culture, Decoration, Maps & Globes
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June 20th, 2011 | 6:28pm by BozAround
 
 

travellers’ communities

17 Jun
2011

There are more and more resources on the web to find accomodations away from the classic hotel rooms. And it’s making the idea of travelling all the more exciting. In a post last year titled My house is yours. Your house is mine. I talked about some smart home swapping websites.

The following two online platforms revolve around the idea of creating communities of like-minded & free-spirited travellers who are looking for budget accommodations when travelling around. They’re not exactly geared to the travelling family with young children, but I am sure that they’ll get there eventually. Or other sites will.

Airbnb – With over 60,000 active listings in 12,663 cities in 181 countries, Airbnb is an amazing resource AND a real pleasure to browse. It connects owners of (short term) apartment or home rentals with travellers (and it’s backed by supersexy Ashton Kutcher himself). The site is nicely designed and gives the possibility to take a peak at people’s homes from close ups. It’s mostly studios and small apartments in the database, but it could work well for young families. There’s a rating system just like on TripAdvisor, so you know what others in the community have experienced. I tried with Istanbul and Sydney and found the choice of places and locations quite exciting.

Couch surfing – This is a non profit organization that connects travellers with…couches and cultural experiences ie. places to stay for free at people’s homes with the view of sharing a piece of life: We have a vision of a world where everyone can explore and create meaningful connections with the people and places they encounter. It’s extremely successful with the younger crowd, and our summer au pair has been finding free accommodations all over the world thanks to Couch surfing. I was amazed when I heard about it and I secretly wished it existed when I was backpacking and internet barely existed (how prehistoric does that sound). Well, if I am not going to sleep on someone’s couch anymore, maybe we can lend ours once in a while and see who’s coming for dinner. The children might like that..

…to be continued



Category: City & Culture, Inspiration, The experienced traveler
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June 17th, 2011 | 6:17pm by BozAround
 
 

break my map. go for it.

8 Jun
2011

We say women purses are always a mess. I say mothers’ purses are even worse. So this is the perfect city map for the travelling mum. It’s not new but I finally got to see and touch one the other day in a shop in London, and loved it. The crumpled map, designed by Emanuele Pizzolorusso from Milan.

12 cities in total, from Amsterdam to Tokyo. Lightweight (20g per map!!), waterproof and virtually indestructible, they’re printed on a special technology material designed to be crumpled in the pocket or in a bag. Go ahead. Break it. As much as you want. Even put some ketchup on it. I don’t mind. Really.



Category: City & Culture, The experienced traveler
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June 8th, 2011 | 1:49pm by BozAround
 
 

the world belongs to you

1 Jun
2011

Tomorrow June 2nd is the opening of the exhibition The World Belongs to You at the Francois Pinault Foundation, to coincide with the opening of the Venice Biennale. The exhibition comprises the works by 40 artists from 20 countries.

This installation from artist Huang Yong Ping is particularly striking: a resin cave, sculptures of buddhas and talibans, projected bat’s shadows.

Photo Marc Domage. Courtesy of the artist and galerie kamel mennour, Paris

The World Belongs to You brings together works by artists from different practices, generations, and backgrounds, exploring artists’ relationships to history, reality and its own representation. “The exhibition revolves around major themes of contemporary history: from the breakdown of symbols, to the temptation of self-withdrawal and isolation, the attraction of violence and spirituality in a troubled and globalised world” (words from the curator Caroline Bourgeois).

I have always dreamt to visit Venice during the biennale. What a perfect opportunity this would be…



Category: City & Culture, Europe, Inspiration
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June 1st, 2011 | 5:30pm by BozAround
 
 

playing around with two new travel apps

13 May
2011

Feel like playing around with some new apps on travels? these 2 have recently come to the market. They’re both free, and they both approach the idea of travelling by theme, through social networking…Ah the power of social networks, the new word of mouth in pr, isn’t it?

Fancy surfing in Sydney? Yes I do. Shopping in New York? Oh yes I really do. Check out e-bookers Explorer, it’s for iPad and is a bit like a travel magazine where you scroll trough pages, and can also share photos, videos and more. A great little gadget for inspiration.

And there’s Amble for iPhone, which allows you to create your own ambles aka your unique tours to share with your friends. It’s tres chic as it’s been launched by Louis Vuitton. Sofia Coppola, Christy Turlington and Sarah Jessica Parker are all amblers. They’re all moms too. So if it’s good for them, must be good for us too…

 

From my perspective, they’re coming to the market 5 months too late..but that’s just me.



Category: City & Culture, The experienced traveler
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May 13th, 2011 | 1:37pm by BozAround
 
 

Lisboa in 3 days tete-a-tete

6 May
2011

Lisbon is a perfect city for a week end getaway tete-a-tete. It’s not too big yet it has a tremendous lot to offer in terms of art and culture. It’s full of charm yet it all comes naturally, at no big expense. And Portuguese people are just very kind. Plus they know a thing or two about good food and delicious pastries.

I am glad we were just the 2 of us though. I would not have wanted to push Amalya’s stroller on all those cobbled stone streets and narrow sidewalks, going up and down around town (the city of the seven hills!)…With children in age of walking all day long, then it’s a perfect family-destination too.

As we did not research anything prior to arriving (a first in BozAround life! a real refresher!), I don’t have a proper city guide to share here. I’ll just throw in some of my favorite souvenirs…

Being a super last minute getaway, and a holiday week end for most Europeans, we were lucky to get the last room available at Bairro Alto hotel, at a real bargained price (remember the rule: you don’t get anything without asking). And what more: they even upgraded us because they felt sad of our story of the day London-Marrakech-Lisbon. It’s very centrally located, right in front of a tram 28 stop, the line that goes all over town to the best areas. And Bairro Alto is the area of the night, where you will find all the bars late at night, a lot of fun.

In Chiado, the neighborhood below Bairro Alto, you can buy some very chic little dresses from Papo D’Anjo shop. It’s the posh English meets Portuguese children’s fashion brand from designer Catherine Monterreiro de Barros. And in the same street, a few numbers down, indulge in a delicious yet affordable 3-course meal (Eur23) at Restaurante Tagide, with the best view over the river and the city.

My favorite part of town was Alfama, a very old neighborhood with lots of winding little streets (a labyrinth, really) going from the river all the way up to the famous castle of Lisbon. I would have been happy staying there too. Lisbon is very pleasant to visit because you can very well do without a tourist guide book. There are lots of pleasant cafes and old shops and workshops, and little back streets where it’s great to get lost. It makes a stay there quite relaxed. Loved our lunch at A Morgaginha de Alfama on Beco de Alfurja, 4. But good luck finding it… (tel: 21 886 5424). Alfama is also the place to come at night to listen to Fado music.. A good address apparently is Parreirinha de Alfama (Largo Chafariz de dentro – tel 21 886 82 09) but it was closed when we tried..

Also in the heights of Alfama, we stumbled upon this little art gallery called ArteFacto – galeria de arte popoular. The owner Rosa commissions local artists who keep in the traditions of folk art, with many beautiful gifts to bring back to the children. I fell in love with the work of Cuban artist Lorenzo Lozane Rivera. Originally from Cuba, he moved to Lisbon not so long ago after marrying his Portuguese wife. And he creates little bundles of love with the remains of old women stockings. The result is very poetic. Amalya loves her little brown heart bear.

Another shop with interesting folk art was Almalusa, right near the entrance of the Castle de Sao Jorge (a worthwhile visit, if only for the stunning views over the city). You could easily miss it as it’s mixed with all the other touristy places, but it stands out once you get in. The owner is passionate about respecting old traditions whether it’s embroideries, ceramics and porcelains. Liked it quite a bit..

Lapa was another atmospheric part of town, to the west of Bairro Alto. Lots of cafes and small shops, and lots of azulejos too. Coincidentally, Monocle Magazine (issue 43) is running a feature this month about Lapa which we happened to have with us, and it’s full of good addresses. The editors argue that it’s time to look at properties in Lisbon, because prices are much lower than where they should be. But beware, on many accounts of people we’ve talked to, Portugal is on the verge of a worst crisis than it is in right now..This week the country got a bail-out package from the IMF for $78bln.The period of economic austerity has only just started it seems.

And if you have one extra day, it’s really worth taking the 45 minute train ride to the town of Sintra, a Unesco World Heritage site. It’s famous for its romantic architecture with pastel colors in shades of pinks and yellows; it’s also famous for its delicious queijadasat Sapa (21 923 0493) and its old moorish castle perched atop in the mist (don’t go without a good pair of walking shoes!).

Oh, and I was going to forget one memorable dinner place for meat lovers, Cafe Sao Bento, rua San Bento number 12. A hidden gem recommended by our Portuguese friend Antonio…hmmm..

Ps: Beware, many museums were closed due to the May 1st holiday…so we have a reason to go back one day



Category: City & Culture, Europe, Far away so close, Just the 2 of us
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May 6th, 2011 | 11:07pm by BozAround
 
 

Featuring Zid Zid Kids on Marrakech

28 Apr
2011

You’ve seen the little airplane backpack that Marcelo carries on the front page of BozAround…and you’ve asked me so many times where it’s from…Designed by the wonderfully creative husband-and-wife team behind Zid Zid Kids and proudly Made in Morocco! I have followed their work ever since we met in 2006, and I am a big fan. Their playful and colourful universe reminds me of my North African childhood (from neighboring Algeria). If only we could find their creations in more stores in Europe (any buyer reading?!), I would not have to fly to Marrakech this week end to get my Houb pillows (the very very last trip in our sabbatical, just the 2 of us). Everything they do always make for the perfect gift. Here, Julie shares her favourite addresses in Marrakech and around, a city you are better off visiting with insider’s tips if you don’t want to get lost in the Medina. Choukrane Julie!

The Zid Zid Kids family – portrait:

We are your average artistic, outdoor loving, multi-lingual, home cooked food adoring, explorer loving family! There is me Julie, I was born in Germany and raised in Ohio and NYC. There is Moulay, my graphic designer husband and business partner, born and raised in Casablanca, Morocco. There is Noor age 9, my muse and future budding playwright born in Cambridge, MA. There is Zak age 7, chief bug finder and future builder of tree houses, born in Marrakech, Morocco

We left Cambridge, MA for Marrakech, Morocco in the fall of 2002 and haven’t really looked back as there is so much to discover here.

Tell us about the philosophy of Zid Zid Kids and how Morocco inspires you:

Our philosophy is to incorporate time-tested traditions and combine them with bold modern styling while using only the best, most natural materials found locally. The spirit of our line is really blending the eclectic mix of the ancient spells of this place, marry it with rich fabrics and embody the creative spirit of each child into each piece we make. I draw much of my inspirations from Morocco as I love the handmade traditions found everywhere; whether it is knitting, pottery, metal, weaving, embroidering, sewing, candle making, tile making, word working, carving, you can find it all, thriving as it has for centuries.

Morocco is truly its own handmade nation. This always gets me incredibly inspired to join in the creative energy! I love having my own workshop, as I can tap directly into my inspirations at any time as well as have a 100% direct involvement with production from beginning to end. This is an important part of the creative process for me.

Your recommended itinerary for a family vacation in Marrakech and beyond:

If your time is short, say a week, then I recommend 3 days in the Medina or the Palmeraie…


If you love to be surrounded by old architecture, winding alleys, hustle & bustle, then a stay in the Medina is for you. There is nothing more stimulating than to have the excitement, colors, sounds, textures of the Medina around you and then step through an ancient door into the hushed luxury of a century old riad where you hear nothing but a fountain, the birds and be filled with the scent of floating jasmine and mint tea.

The kids will be dazzled by the fountains, cats, tiled floors, and interesting corners to be explored.

 

If you are more of a nature lover and prefer open spaces, then an outlying neighborhood that won’t disappoint is the Palmeraie, a very large Palm Oasis set right outside of Marrakech. Legend has it that this Oasis exists simply because centuries ago, when Moroccan soldiers had camped here, they ate many dates and from the remaining pits came the palm trees. In this oasis, you will be spoiled by incredible beauty of a Desert landscape.

And don’t let the word Desert scare you, this type of landscape is especially diverse, fascinating and surprisingly green in some areas. Stop to study the natural architecture around you and enjoy its lush setting. Here you can watch the sun set in peace surrounded by humbling palms that feel like old friends.

The kids will have non-stop fun exploring the strange bugs that can be found, climbing the palms and spending time with the camels.

Then 3 days exploring the Ourika Mountains…


After a few days getting your bearing in the city, hire a taxi to take you out towards the Atlas Mountains which the foothills are about an hour away. The Ourika Valley is filled with interesting villages, souks and you can get a feel for the real Morocco. The drive up is beautiful. You can easily hire a guide that will be able to provide you with as many mules as you need, so much fun for the kids, and tailor a hike just for you – half hour, hour and more.

Asni is a great region to explore. You can walk for 1-2 hours and make it back for a fresh lunch at any of the local rustic & charming French run hotels or catch a delicious slow cooked Berber tagine on the side of the road (where the locals eat).

Pick a little auberge at the foothills, refresh in rustic simplicity and explore the region!

These are good addresses:

- L’Oliveraie de Marigha – restaurant & piscine

- La Bergerie – lush yet rustic hotel, restaurant, piscine, mountain treks, gardens

- Or Near Toubkal, the famous Hotel Kasbah Toubkal – one of the best eco hotel in the world, sitting on an amazing site!

 

For Marrakech and beyond 15 days…

Get your fill of the Medina for 4 days and then pack yourselves for a Sahara Desert trek, with a 2 day stop in the stunning Palmeraie village of Skoura – the whole trip is kid heaven. Once in the Desert, ride the camels, scale the dunes, have couscous under the stars and tuck yourselves to sleep beautiful tents in the middle of the Desert….a trip your little ones will remember for a lifetime.

Zid Zid’ Zak drawing inspired in Marrakech

PLAY in MARRAKECH and beyond

When in town, we really love discovering fun of the Medina, le musee du Marrakech, the old palaces like le Palais du Badii for drawing, the Institute Francaise for concerts, films and books. Our favorite playground is located at Casa Botanica, the gorgeous pepiniere right outside of town. There you will find the delicious eco-friendly Café Flower Power, along with a great eco-friendly farm style park for kids.  Filled with color, light, flowers and so much more, this is a fav place to play and eat by far.

Then we love to be outdoors. Since there are little to no parks in town, we get out of town. For something not too far, Terre D’Amanar is wonderful for active kids and adults. You have a gorgeous eco landscape to play in. Situated next to 100,000 hectares of National Forest, you have zip lines, walking trails, wooden jungle gyms, art classes. It is a great way to spend the day.

Call Nourdine in the Palmeriae for Camel Rides & 4×4 Quad rentals: tel: +212 667 12 19 82

And stop at La Pause for lunch or for the day, an incredible desert spot outside of Marrakech

 

From there, we like to takes hikes in the Atlas Mountains or head south towards Agadir to a dramatic yet quiet, wild beachfront town called Mirleft.

The country of Morocco is an outdoor-centric kind of place and we love having the chance to explore so many diverse landscapes.

EAT in MARRAKECH

Café Flower Power located at the gorgeous pepiniere Casa Botanica (see description above) for fresh air and the freshest food - Route de Sidi Abdellah Ghiat (after Golf Royal), Marrakech +212 524 48 40 87

La Creperie as we loves crepes! And the kids love this little spot and its captain hook menu, small, next to school, great service and a fun parrot to keep everyone entertained. Yummy crepes are served for lunch and desert; you can have homemade apple cider on the side.  14 Petit Marche de Gueliz, Route de Targa. +212 524 43 22 08

La Bled du Grenadine is the perfect place for a chill out day next to the pool. Grenadine is a fun and funky hostess that will totally welcome you as if you’ve know her forever. You can swim the entire day, nap under her palms and then let her serve you the freshest, yummiest lunch, with almost everything coming from her garden. She is one of the best kept kid-friendly secrets in town.  Grenadine et Philippe SOUBIELLE +212 61 451 790. E-mail lebledgrenadine@gmail.com Km 5, route de l’Aeroport, Marrakech.

For just the 2 of us, definitely on the rooftop of Riad el Fenn…

SLEEP in MARRAKECH

This is very tough to choose as there are truly amazing places to stay here in Marrakech. I’ve narrowed it down to my favorite top 5, each one unique and offering something very special. I recommend choosing 1 place to stay and then hopping over to the others for their spa, boutique, lunch by the pool or for a candlelit dinner you won’t regret.

Jnane Tamsna – inside the Palmeraie.

Riad el Fenn – in the Medina.

Beldi Country Club – right outside of town

Peacock Pavilions – outside of town

La Pause – outside of town

SHOP in MARRAKECH

In the Medina

1. Lalla – great handbags & accessories, found on the first floor (French 1er étagè) of the restaurant Terrace des Epices inside the Medina. Shop here and the other great boutiques on the same floor and after head up to the terrace for a yummy lunch.

2. Souk des Epices for all your spices (a must to take home) and the classic little handmade leather camels and horses, always a hit!

3. The large flea market in Bab Khamis for crazy vintage finds at great prices

4. Riad el Fenn for gorgeous sequined wedding blankets

Outside the Medina

1. Atelier Nihal – gorgeous woven textiles with workshop on site. He is found in the design district of Sidi Ghanem, very good prices for incredible quality of work (atelier.nihal@hotmail.fr)

2. Nectarome on the Route du Ourika for essential oils, argan, great handmade soaps. If the time is right, they will serve you a nice tea and you can request a foot bath. Located on a pretty piece of land with gardens (nectarome@nectarome.com)

SMART TIPS

Tip #1: Bring the right clothes; Morocco is known as a cold country with a hot sun. Middle of the day you might be boiling, but then at night it cools down and you are searching for your sweater. Also, bring or buy light scarves, they are perfect to protect you from the dusty desert wind that kicks up, the sun, the cold and in case you end up somewhere more conservative.

Tip #2: Go with the flow! Marrakech can be a bit chaotic, just embrace and read any books/radio pieces by Tahir Shah – he will get you inspired and laughing at the same time.

Tip #3 – for shoppers, I recommend picking up this book, a perfect walking/shopping guide through the twisting Medina

And some more Reading Recommendations…

Tahir Shah , Paul Bowles, Maryam Montague  www.mymarrakesh.com, Susan Simon’s “Shopping in Marrakech”, ”TimeOut Marrakech”

 

You can find Zid Zid Kids in Marrakech in the Industrial Quarter known as Sidi Ghanem (+ 212 524 33 53 07) where they have their showroom and where they recently started a tri-lingual art classes for ages 4-6 & 7-9 (read more on their blog). You can also find them online at www.zidzid.us In New York, check out ABC Carpet & Home for the largest selection of Zid Zid products.



Category: Africa, City & Culture, Decoration, Inspiration, Just the 2 of us, Travel interviews
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April 28th, 2011 | 11:15pm by BozAround
 
 

The Best of Buenos Aires with Los Niños

22 Apr
2011

We came back to Buenos Aires after Mendoza, and all together have spent more than a week in the city. While I would not call BA a very family-friendly city, because it’s noisy and polluted, huge with lots of traffic, there are pleasant activities and itineraries to take with the children. What I found most fascinating in BA is the mix of old and new. A very unique city with lots of different parts of town to explore by foot.

On our 2nd stay, we rented one of the loft-apartment of Home Hotel. It’s an excellent place to stay with the family. You get the best of both worlds: an apartment with a kitchen and a small courtyard, very private, quiet and spacious, and you get all the great services of the hotel, swimming pool and staff help. It’s located in Palermo Hollywood, my favorite part of town in BA with San Telmos.
Here is Home Hotel’ Best of Buenos Aires with Kids, all tried and tested (almost!).
Buenos Aires Zoo, opened in 1988, with a surprisingly great diversity of animals. As per Marcelo: Better than Regent’s Park Zoo in London! People who live nearby complain they hear the lions roaring all the time. i think it’s a good sign. Right in the center of the city, in Palermo, Av. Sarmiento y Las Heras. Closed Mondays.
And right outside, you will see horse carriages…Marcelo and Amalya loved taking a stroll the old fashion way.
Interactive Science Museum (Forbidden NOT to touch). This is a super interactive science museum and Marcelo absolutely loved the place… while I got super stressed about not figuring out most of the experiments!!! It reminded me how bad I was at school with physics.
The museum is right in Recoleta by the famous Cemetery (a great place to visit too). It makes for a pleasant half day trip, to be followed by a mouth-watering and inexpensive lunch of empanadas at El Sanjuanino.
Botanical Gardens: designed by French landscape architect Carlos Thays in 1998. It’s in Palermo and there is also a lovely playground right beside it.
Parque Tres de Febrero: it’s Buenos Aires version of Hyde Park, or Central Park. In the middle lies a large pond with ducks, geese where boats can be rented, there are also bicycle rentals with a paved cycle around the lake. Rosedal, Parque 3 de Febrero in Palermo, very near the Botanical gardens.
Planetarium: There are telescope observing sessions several times a week, as well as sun sessions.
Museo Argentino del Titere (Puppet Museum): shows are held regularly.Puppets of all kinds, wooden, made of foam and rubber, articulated, made of papier mache, tango singers…It’s in the area of San Telmo (Piedras 905. Tel: 4307-6917 / 4304-4376)

In addition to the above children-centric places, these are some of BozAround favorites, equally easy on the children.

- A Sunday stroll in San Telmo…

Every Sunday, there’s the flea market of San Telmo. It’s not over crowded but beware of pickpockets. Enjoy a cheap and yummy lunch of empanadas (sooooo good) or pizza & pasta at Pedro Telmo (Bolivar, 962. Tel: 43 62 36 94), and stroll around with a few pesos in the pocket, to give away to the many street performers.

Marcelo found some super heroes comics at the market…

- A morning spent at La Boca…

La Boca is the notoriously dodgy yet most touristy part of the city, because of the very photogenic colourful streets (do NOT got there after dark!!). We went quite early in the morning and as such avoided the tourist buses. Loved it!! The atmosphere is very old-school, yet one of the most exciting art foundation in the city is there, PROA, with a Louise Bourgeois exhibition going on right now (and her famous spider which any child will be amazed at).

Marcelo and Ceki also visited the football stadium of Boca Junior, and we all met for a delicious Italian lunch at Il Matterello (MArtin Rodriguez, 517), an institution in the city.

In La Boca, I stumbled upon this store, owned by a very elegant Spanish-immigrant woman of 86 years old.

Beautiful vintage dresses and many other nostalgic objects. I don’t have the address but if you walk around, you might recognize it. She has had her shop for 25 years. She was so sweet, with such a gentle smile. I barely had any change on me, otherwise I could have bought so much. I left with a vintage silk dress, off-white, which I told myself Amalya might want one day (for her wedding?!)

- An afternoon in Palermo…

…Visiting the MALBA museum and its impressive collection of LAtin American contemporary art in a stunning modern construction. Nearby by is Persicco, for one of the best ice cream in town (remember, most of Argentines are of Italian-descent)..And not far is Plaza Alemana with a good playground. A great place to mingle with local children in their school uniforms at the end of the day.

You’ll find lots of guides about Buenos Aires so I won’t say much more about where to eat & shop…Just one address that I fell in love with: DIVIA. If you’re going to bring back one thing for yourself from Argentina, it’s shoes. And these ones are so beautiful and so unique.

 



Category: BozAroundTheWorld, City & Culture, My guides, South America
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April 22nd, 2011 | 8:32pm by BozAround
 
 

Wine tasting in Mendoza, Argentina. Children not permitted.

19 Apr
2011

We toured the wine region of Mendoza for 3 days, leaving the kids behind in Buenos Aires under the loving care of nonna. ¡Salud!

Mendoza is the 4th largest city in Argentina, and its wines are exported all over the world, especially the Malbec, which I am a big fan of. Actually Mendoza is about a 7 hours drive from Santiago De Chile crossing over the Andes and it’s supposed to be an incredibly scenic road. That would be a nice way to get there. We flew from BA, a 1h30 easy flight from the domestic airport right downtown BA.

We made our itinerary over 3 days: 2 nights in Mendoza city & 1 night in the country side in beautiful Valle del Uco (90min from the city). I think it was the right amount of time. Actually, after 4 winery visits the first day starting at 10am with our first tasting, I was ready to go on a detox…a result of five months going around the world and living healthily.

I enjoyed these 3 days for 3 reasons:

- Great wines

- Great architecture

- Great scenery

The two main wine producing areas around Mendoza are: Lujan de Cuyo outside the city, and the Uco Valley a bit further. It’s nice to spend at least one day in the first, and one day in the 2nd.

To visit Lujan de Cuyo, we based ourselves at a homey and welcoming b&b in downtown Mendoza called Casa Lila, simple and no fuss, wonderful hosts willing to help every bits. For dinner in town, everyone raves about 1884, a restaurant by the famous Argentine chef Francis Mallman, but I think it lives on its reputation. Azafran is a better option, relaxed on the sidewalks of Mendoza.

To visit the Uco Valley, we stayed at the posada of the Salentein winery, which is definitely not worth recommending.  There is apparently a wonderful relais&chateau called Cavas Wine Lodge, for pampering times. Or there are several wineries with rooms in the region. Watch out for Bodega Atemisque when it opens its posada. I think it will be beautiful because their winery is stunning, and beautifully located too.

Everyone advises to take a driver/guide when going wine tasting in the region. And I confirm it! Not only the wineries are not always easy to find, but they also often require appointments for visits…And if you plan 4 winery visits in a day like most people do, that’s on average 3 to 4 tastings per winery..I let you do the math for the don’t drink&drive formula. Our driver/guide was good, not the most chatty and willing to get out of his way type of person but he did put together a good itinerary: Javier on javiereppens@yahoo.com.ar

In Lujan de Cuyo, our favorite wineries are:

Achaval Ferrer. A smaller winery, only 5 years old, with 2 particularly good wines tasted: the Finca Mirador, and a dolce Malbec which I loved and can only be purchased at the winery.

Carmelo Patti. A one-man show (photo below, at his winery). A legend in Mendoza! He is what they call a garagista, ie a winemaker who does it all in their garage so to speak. And he has been doing some of the best wines in the region for close to 40 years, all by himself. He talked passionately about his wines and wines in general (in Spanish) and made a great impression on us. We were pleased to leave with an autographed bottle from Mr Carmelo Patti…

We enjoyed a five-course lunch at Bodega Vistalba, at their restaurant La Bourgogne. They also have 2 rooms in b&b inside the winery supposed to be nice. It’s pleasant to face the vineyards for lunch, and the food was good paired with good wines, but nothing to go home crazy about (so says the little Frenchie..)

Everyone recommends to visit Catena Zapata winery, maybe because it’s one of the biggest. I did not like it. The place is pompous and very touristy. The architecture is a strange and rather tasteless Mayan-style pyramide. But they did have a very good Angelica Zapata Malbec…

this is Carmelo Patti and his very old -school winery:

In Valle del Uco, our favorite wineries are:

Pulenta Estate. Super high-tech and stunning architecture, especially the cellar room. It’s a relatively young winery, like many in Mendoza, which says a lot about the dynamism in the region. They had a Gran Corte, a blend of Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot.

Atamisque. So beautiful! Such delicious wines! And no, I am not biased by the fact that the owner is French. The architecture, first, is stunning and so understated. Minimalist yet perfectly blending with the surrounding environment. From local architects Bormida y Yanzon who actually did most of the beautiful wineries in the region (see Pulenta Estate too). The Catalpa Malbec, and the Atamisque Malbec were particularly delicious. There is also a restaurant on the property where the specialty is trout as they have a trout farming. And soon a pousada…

Bodega Salentein. Another impressive architecture, very grand this time yet done by the same local architects Bormida y Yanzon. Salentein is completely geared to the visiting wine aficionado. There is a home theater showing the whole process of wine making, an in-house art gallery with Latin American artists featured. A very pleasant cafe/restaurant for lunch…Their Numina Malbec, and Primus Malbec are delicious.

Don’t waste time at the winery Andeluna in the same region. Very unpleasant staff, and the place looks like a mock-up of a provencale house. Out of place..

this is Bodega Atemisque:

this is Bodega Salentein:

BozAround tip: at Bodega Salentein, you will find cardboard boxes in their shop for 3, 6 or 12 bottles with a hard foam inside specially made to check it in the plane. And some smart bubble wrap for individual bottles, resealable. Very convenient after 3 days of wine tasting delicious Malbecs…

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Category: BozAroundTheWorld, City & Culture, Just the 2 of us, My guides, South America
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April 19th, 2011 | 1:42am by BozAround