BozAround


The 'hotel' tag

 

La Colombe d’Or – a hotel you’d never want to leave

There is a small hotel in the South of France, in the arriere pays of Nice (the ‘back’ land), which you’d truly never want to leave. I’m normally quite restless when I travel. Always on the go, checking things out…Well, we’ve just spent 3 days for a family reunion at La Colombe d’Or and I could have stayed there forever.

The view from our bedroom with the golden dove aka La Colombe d’Or…

A few months ago, I was asked to choose a place to celebrate the 60th birthday of my mother in-law (the whole family lives in Istanbul and flew in thru Nice international airport). I had stayed once with my husband at La Colombe d’Or, the year we got engaged. Back then, we were travelling casually on the Cote d’Azur, and thought we’d give a try  to this mythical hotel for a night. We had gotten a good deal by chance, last minute during the Cannes Film Festival. The place was filled with Hollywood producers, round bellies and big cigars. I thought I was in movie myself. La Colombe d’Or made a big impression on both of us.

Over the years, I kept on hearing here and there how it’s a favourite place of such and such person (celebrity or not). I thought to myself, it’s also my favourite place, but I never got a chance to go again.

This is Saint Paul de Vence, the medieval village where La Colombe d’Or is located, just a 20min drive from Nice international airport.

So when I was asked the delicate task of organising the family reunion, I jumped on the chance to go back to La Colombe d’Or. Everyone (and absolutely everyone in the family from 2 to 72 years old) fell under the spell. Behind the walls of the hotel which opened in the 1920′s, it’s another world. Time has stopped in the 1950′s/60′s, you feel pampered by the spirit of a family-owned place, you eat like a king, and best of all, it’s a feast for the eyes.

   

The hotel is filled with art donated over the years to the owner Mr Roux, who entertained a special relationship with many of the artists. Fernand Leger, Picasso, Miro, Braque, Chagall, Calder…Read the story of the hotel here. It’s fascinating.

   

You’d think so much art, so much history would make the place a difficult one with children. Not all all and it’s the beauty of it. Thanks to the family-spirit of La Colombe d’Or, which still belongs to the same owners as in the 1920′s, you feel as if hosted in someone’s home. Nothing feels too precious that you can’t touch it. It’s a place that’s lived, that’s seen it all hence making everyone comfortable. Parents having a lazy breakfast under the fig trees, with a basket of fresh croissants and baguette, while the children are wandering around, playing hide and seek behind the big statues.
      
BozAround tips
- The hotel is composed of the main house and an annex a short walk downhill. I’d recommend the main building for a family stay as you are right by the swimming pool (a dream pool, huge and heated all year long at 28 degres) and by the garden where meals are served. A family stays very comfortably in one of the 4 apartments as they’re extremely spacious and quite frankly good value for the beauty & quality of the place compared to many luxurious hotels. We stayed in #16. Loved it with the view from our bed onto Saint Paul de Vence and the Colombe d’Or statue. And it’s just one set of stairs from the dining room so there’s no need for a babysitter at night if the children prefer to stay in bed watching a DVD. The other 3 apartments look onto the pool and are calmer, albeit a tiny bit further away from where you have your meals. #36 is quite grand with its beautiful main bedroom. #37 is a duplex and has the advantage of a large private terrace…I think they’re all worth trying.
Inside apartment 36 at La Colombe d’Or:
   
- I was told some families come for an entire week and arrange a swimming instructor daily for the children. Tres chic.
- There are no DVD players (bring an iPad or laptop) in the rooms, which are more of the old-chool style, but with such taste and simplicity that it’s really not an issue.
- It’s worth staying just one or two nights at La Colombe d’Or, and not moving anywhere apart for a short walk to the village or to the world-famous Fondation Maeght, a stunning private collection of art in an equally stunning modernist house and a garden filled with scented pine trees.
   
- You don’t necessarily need a car rental if you come to relax and stay put in Saint Paul de Vence (a taxi from the airport is Eur60). However, for a pleasant day trip, head to nearby Antibes where the Picasso Museum in the old town is a real treat, easy on the whole family. And if you feel you really need to do something kid-centric, there’s always Marineland, one of Europe’s most famous aquatic park located in Antibes.
- Oh, and don’t get me started on the food. We had 3 meals at the restaurant of La Colombe d’Or (in addition to all our breakfasts) hence giving us a chance to try many dishes in the menu. Not one was a disappointment. Homey French cooking with the freshest mediterranean ingredients. De li cieux.
      
For a family reunion, for a getaway with the children, for a romantic escape, for a glamorous week end, for a pause away from busy life, La Colombe d’Or fits everyone and every taste. That’s what makes it perfect. It’s not  pretentious, it’s not trying too hard. It’s just one of the most special little hotel in the world…


 
 

Dolce vita under the Tuscan Sun

If you’re dreaming of a slice of dolce vita under the Tuscan Sun, get the book Hotel Il Pellicano published by Rizzoli editions a few months ago. It’s a beautiful compilation of some of the high life moments that took place at this mythical hotel, shot by three great photographers: Slim Aarons who has been returning to Il Pellicano every year for the past 25, Juergen Teller whose work as fashion photographer I love and John Swope, famous Magnum and Life Magazine photographer.

A family stroll by Porto Ercole marina with the nanny, by Slim Aarons (1967)

The swimming pool, by Slim Aarons (1973)

Yvonne Scio and daughter Isabella Beatrice, by Juergen Teller (2009)

The Private Cove by Slim Aarons (1991)

No doubt the hotel is family-friendly and will cater to your every needs…but If you can’t get a reservation at Il Pellicano for this summer, just get the book….(!)

Photos courtesy of Rizzoli editions



 
 

Waiting for you with open hearts, in Chilean Patagonia

We found a gem of a little family hotel in Punta Arenas, the main city of Chilean Patagonia. Unfortunately, we only spent one night there, but it was a true home away from home.

this is the Chilean flag & the Patagonian flag

Ilaia means “further south” in the language of the Yagán people, the most austral population on the planet, now almost entirely disappeared.

Ilaia Hotel is run from the heart. You feel it from the moment you make a reservation by email, and they answer you in signature waiting for you with a smile. Loved it! If you ever need a place to stay in Punta Arenas, on your way to the great outdoors of Chilean Patagonia (writing from the natural park of Torres del Paine right now), book one of the family rooms in Hotel Ilaia.

There are several things to do with Punta Arenas as a base, including paying a visit to the penguin colony of Isla Magdalena (requires at least 5 hours), or closer, to Sono Otway. Taking a a day trip to see whales. The hotel can help you arrange everything.

the penguins did not mind the incredible wind

And from Punta Arenas (the biggest airport in the region), you can drive 4 hours to Puerto Natales which is then the gateway to the natural park of Torres del Paine. My feet, my arms, my hands hurt so much from all the trekking we did these past 4 days, sorry i can’t write more right now!

a hug into the light… (that was another of Ilaia’s email signature. Felt good too)



 
 

Scotland, Rain & Shine

The trick about spending 3 days with the children in Scotland is the packing. You’ll need some for the Rain – because it will rain! – and some for the Sun – because you might get lucky.

24 hours in Edinburgh was barely enough but it allowed us for a good overview and enough time to explore the famous castle (half day). It dominates the whole city and is worth the climbing of the (many) stairs. (Thank you Ceki for carrying the bugaboo each time. Next time I won’t leave the backpack behind)

Not to be missed at the Castle, the daily 1pm firing of the gun (except Sunday). It’s impressive for everyone, and very very loud.

BozAround tips: beat the queue at the castle and pre-buy your tickets online here.

Right after the visit, on Castle Hill, it’s interesting to stop at the Scotch Whisky Experience for some sampling, provided that you have babysiting planned afterwards. We did not, so we just chose some good-looking bottles…

Edinburgh gets 2 million visitors a year, one of which comes during the world-class festivals of August. My advice, visit the city any other month of the year.

However, every May, there is the Edinburgh Children’s festival, with a good quality programme of performing arts. Worth checking out.

The Old Town neighborhood around the castle is charming and easy to cover by foot. I wish we had a lunch at The Witchery by The Castle. Built in 1595, the setting looked beautiful and the restaurant got great reviews. But it’s not baby friendly at all (no high chairs, no buggies) so we’ll come back when Amalya is a bit older…

Edinburgh has many fine antique shops and old bookshops. We stopped at The Old Town Bookshop on 8 Victoria Street where I picked a very sweet book of poems for children called The Littlest One. A handwritten note inside says it’s from 1920 and used to belong to Rosamond Leeds. Our thoughts are to you, Rosamond. Scroll down for a selected poem.

I must admit we did not eat well in Scotland. A lot of lamb, pork and fish&chips…not my cup of tea. Below is Marcelo staring at a piglet ready to be eaten, hungry anyone?

However, we did sleep extremely well at the new Chester Residence. With a kitchen and full amenities in each apartment, and a very accommodating staff, it’s the perfect base for a family.

For our 2nd day, we drove north east towards Saint Andrews, famous for its castle, its cathedral, and the fact that Prince William studied there. The coast is beautiful, with intense shades of greens and melancholic greys in the sky. On the way, there is Deep Sea World , which everyone raves about, but we by-passed it and rushed to where the famous East Neuk coast begins.

East Neuk is one picturesque village after the next. We stopped for fish&chips at the Ship Inn in Elie.

Our last day, we relaxed at the Hotel Gleaneagles in the countryside, west of Edinburgh. That was quite a discovery, so family-friendly it was. Famous for its golf course, it also has an incredible choice of activities for the family, starting with a creche and a fully-equipped kids club with Fat Boys and all sorts of electronic devices.

The most exciting activity: a Falconry School. That’s right, children from 4 year olds can learn to train an eagle. There’s also a gundog school, some off-road driving sessions and a world-famous equestrian club. You guessed it, it’s traditional British at its best, but done with taste and in a very welcoming/almost casual way.

Marcelo wanted to try every activity at The Gleaneagles. He even played croquet. But he still needs to say tomato properly…

I am sharing here a little poem from The Littlest One book, called Out-of-the-World:

When Mother is tired or worried or sad

She slips away an’ down the garden

Into a place of cool, green trees,

Where always, she says, there’s a tiny breeze

Whisperin’ up in the tree-tops.

And always it makes her quiet and glad,

And she sits an’ thinks, an’ she feels she’s somewhere

Out of the World an’ looking on, Watching the things that are passing – and gone…

And she says she can see such a lot doesn’t matter;

So she leaves all her worries there under a tree.

And the things that do matter she puts in her heart,

And comes back to the World and to Daddy an’ me.

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